【時尚萬花筒】郭培，中國高級時裝第一人

中國的時尚格局正在改變。 提到「時裝」這個詞， 你肯定會想到巴黎的鵝卵石街道，那些精緻的店面以及陳列其中的世界上最貴的令人驚嘆的作品。如果你有機會近距離看時裝秀的話，你就會發現紅毯上設計師的每一件作品都是一件不凡的傑作。▼

郭培的作品受到一些巨星像Rhianna和Carmen Dell"Orefice的喜愛。她的拖地長裙結合了現代時裝和複雜的工藝， 很好的詮釋了風格的本質。憑藉個人的才華和創新， 郭培讓全世界的觀眾開始了解中國的時裝。 以郭培為代表的亞洲設計師融合了傳統和新的東方風格，他們的設計也因此既有現代的美感也有古典的韻味。

郭培是新世紀時裝設計新生力量的代表人物，是個土生土長的北京大妞，以一己之力把中國的高級奢侈時裝推向了時尚潮流的前沿。她設計的手工禮服尤其受中國上流人士的歡迎。 本月， 郭培入行20周年紀念活動將在她的第二故鄉——美國舉行。

郭培的個展將在美國薩凡那藝術大學（Savannah College of Art and Design）時裝與電影美術館舉行。 展覽展示了她最得意的作品，同時也記錄了她從一個籍籍無名的視覺藝術家成長為《時代》雜誌「全球最有影響力100人」之一和時尚行業「500位改變全球時尚人物」之一的歷程。

譯者注

薩凡納藝術與設計學院（Savannah College of Art and Design，簡稱SCAD），位於美國喬治亞州的薩凡納市中心，是全美最大的藝術學院，目前運營著16所畫廊，包括位於薩凡納的Pei Ling Chan Gallery、亞特蘭大的Trois Gallery 、香港的 Moot Gallery等。

郭培是第一個受邀加入法國高級時裝工會（Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture）的中國設計師， 同時獲得這一榮譽席位的是里斯本的著名設計師 Elie Saab， 這讓她的設計功力和美學觀念更為人所知。其中2015年在美國大都會博物館舉行的服裝藝術協會晚會上的那件黃色標誌性的禮服，更是她的巔峰之作。

郭培2016年在巴黎時裝周首次亮相之後， 事業一直穩步上升。郭培的名字開始在皇室和政治精英女性中流傳開。她承認接下那個55磅重的禮服業務之前， 並不知道誰是Riri（蕾哈娜）。她的設計有一種含蓄的東方美。她曾對時尚資訊網站Fashionista說：「作為一個設計師，名譽並不是那麼重要，更多的是要承擔起傳遞文化的責任。」

郭培 2016春夏巴黎高定時裝周

郭培的作品以一種現代的方式展現了中國博大精深的藝術底蘊，也汲取了亞洲金屬器皿和瓷器的文化內涵，深受國際媒體的追捧和國際時尚圈一些大咖的賞識。本次展示的作品有30餘件， 其中有的甚至要話費數年的功夫來製作。薩凡那藝術大學的創始人兼總裁Paula Wallace表示：「郭培是一個國際巨星和時尚藝術家，她有很強的掌控力， 我們學校也是一樣， 致力於成就有卓越學識的學生， 非常榮幸同她以及其他的朋友合作。Rizzoli出版社已經出版了她的第一部作品大全集，我校的博物館將會永久收藏， 而讀者也將會沉醉於郭培創造的優雅而魔幻的藝術世界」。

你可以去10月27號在喬治亞州薩凡納藝術大學陳裴凌畫廊（ Pei Ling Chan Gallery）舉行的展覽。 本次展覽紀念刊在各大電商和書店均有售。

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AW17 High street hacks- Champagne style on a lemonade budget

Guo Pei - Couture Beyond

The landscape of Chinese fashion is changing.

Think of the word 『couture』 and your mind wanders to the cobbled streets of Paris, the quaint pied-à-terres that are home to some of the world』s most expensive and awe-inspiring creations. But look a little closer next time you scan the red carpet and you』ll spot one couturier』s designs that are anything but ordinary. ▼

Loved by superstars like Rhianna and Carmen Dell"Orefice,Guo Pei』s stunning floor-skimmers instil contemporary high fashion with intricate craftsmanship that celebrates the origins of style. Offering a global audience insight into a nation built on traditional savoir-faire and innovation, Asian designers like Guo sit on the precipice between old and new oriental design, imbuing a modern aesthetic with a sense of learnt heritage.

Leading the charge for a new breed of millennial upstarter, Guo Pei is the Beijing-based couturier that has singlehandedly pushed Chinese high luxe to the forefront of fashion zeitgeist. Dressing the highest echelons of society in her stunning handcrafted robes, Guo Pei』s 20-year career is being celebrated this month in her second home – America.

Showcased at SCAD museum of Film and Fashion, her first solo exhibition presents a cross-section of her most striking designs - charting her story from an unknown visual artist to Time magazine"s "100 Most Influential People" and one of The Business of Fashion"s 500 "People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry."

The first Chinese couturier invited to join the lofty ranks of France』s 『Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture』 alongside Lebanese-born, Elie Saab, the landmark installation provides insight into the technical and aesthetic aspects of her craft, with the now-iconic yellow cape worn at the Metropolitan Museum of Art"s Costume Institute Gala in 2015 the jewel in the crown of her career.

Making her first PFW debut in 2016, Guo Pei』s rise to success has been sure and steady. A name exchanged between distinguished ladies who lunch, royalty and political elite, Guo admits she didn』t even know who Riri was before she commissioned the 55-pound cape – a type of introverted humility only a true artisan could confess, she told Fashionista, 「As designers, it"s not about the fame that you can gain. It"s more about the responsibility you have as a designer to carry on the culture and cultural inheritance.」

GUO PEI 2016SSCTR Paris Fashion Week

Covered by the international press and coveted by some of the world』s most important fashion figures, she has been heralded as the modern messenger of the country』s rich artistic heritage, constructing works of art from the continents proudest exports including everything from precious metals to pottery. An intimate look at more than 30 pieces – some of which took years to complete, SCAD president and founder Paula Wallace said, 「International superstar and fashion artist Guo Pei is in a league of her own, as is SCAD, the preeminent source of knowledge in the disciplines we teach. It is our honor to partner with Guo Pei and with our friends at Rizzoli to publish the first grand compilation of her work as part of the SCAD Museum Book Collection. Readers will become immersed in the ethereal, magical world of Guo Pei and the wonders she creates.」

Head over to the exhibit from October 27th at SCAD"sPei Ling Chan Gallery, Savannah, Georgia. Alternatively, a commemorative book is now on sale at all good online retailers and bookstores.

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