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京城舊夢:記憶里的老北京衚衕

There are two colors that symbolize Beijing. Red is the color of the brick palaces within the Forbidden City and grey is the color of various Siheyuans (courtyard houses) that lie deep inside the Hutongs of Beijing. Common Bei-jingers had a very different lifestyle compared to that of aristocrats who lived in palaces. However, long and winding Hutongs correctly portrays the life of the commoners that lived in 「Old Beijing」.

北京的符號,一半是紫禁城的紅磚宮殿;一半是衚衕深處那些灰牆的四合院。宮殿深處的王侯將相離北京人太遠;衚衕深處的百姓人家才是老北京生活的寫照。

「There are about 3600 Hutongs. Some of them have names, and others are nameless.」 Hidden inside Hutongs are not only the daily lives of common Beijing residents, but also famous historical relics and the past glory of wealthy families. However, as time flies, many of these Hutongs are beginning to disappear.

「有名的衚衕三千六,沒名的衚衕如牛毛」。衚衕里,藏著這個城市裡普通人的日常,也藏著那些歷史過往的名人遺迹、昔日里大戶人家的莊嚴氣派。但隨著時間的洗禮,許多衚衕正漸漸消失。

Artist Kuang Han, uses pencil sketches to recreate the Hutongs of Old Beijing.

畫家況晗用鉛筆素描作品為大家再現老北京衚衕。

Kuang Han was born in Yifeng, Jiangxi Province. After his graduating from the School of Fine Arts Nanjing Normal University in 1989, he was assigned to live in Beijing. He lived in a Hutong when he first arrived here. While living there, he nurtured a deep emotional connection with Hutongs.

況晗, 出生於江西宜豐,1989年畢業於南京師範大學美術學院。畢業後被分配至北京,初住在衚衕里就對衚衕產生了深厚的情感。

「Nothing in the world can compare with the culture of the Beijing Hutongs. Any Hutong you walk into, you』ll discover the stories that happened and the people that lived there, as far back as the Yuan and Qing Dynasties.」

「北京的衚衕文化底蘊任何地方比不了。某一條衚衕,可以從元朝說到清朝這條衚衕發生了什麼故事、什麼人住過。」

Therefore, he cruises through streets and alleys of Beijing in search for poetic sentiment and beauty of daily life. He sketches them with watercolors and pencils. Kuang Han has been recording the changes of Beijing Hutongs for more than a decade now. He has compiled over 3000 pieces of over 500 Hutongs, and published two artistic collections: The Beijing Hutongs and The Disappeared Hutongs.

於是他跑遍北京的大街小巷,從日常生活的景物中發現詩意和美的韻致,用水彩和鉛筆來描繪衚衕。迄今為止,況晗十餘年如一日得記錄著老北京城衚衕的變遷,共畫了大大小小500多條衚衕,收集了近3000幅衚衕資料,出版有《留住衚衕-況晗寬線條鉛筆畫作品選》《消失的衚衕-鉛筆畫中的北京面貌》等書。

「There was a pomegranate tree, a hogwash bucket, a garbage bin, a mop and a broom by the door (of where I lived), so I painted them. That was my first Hutong painting. After I finished it, someone looked at the painting and said, hey, you』ve made the hogwash bucket pretty. To me, weaved baskets, goldfish bowls and blooming flowers are all inspiration. I ended up strolling up and down each Hutong, feeling their steady breaths as I did so.

「(我住的地方)門口正好有一棵石榴樹,還有泔水桶、垃圾桶、拖把、掃把,我就畫了一張。這是我真正畫衚衕的第一張畫。畫完之後,(別人)一看,說:哎呦,你把泔水桶怎麼畫得這麼漂亮。(衚衕里)編織的籃子、放的金魚缸,開的花,這都是我很好的素材。我就一條一條衚衕地走,感受到衚衕在呼吸的感覺。」

He uses pencils to recreate Hutongs on paper. Many consider his unique thick pencil sketches, a splendid expression of Beijing Hutong charm. In the sketch-es, he blends lines and planes in dark, grey and light colors to create simple aspects of life, like the streets and Hutongs in Beijing City. The thick lines give the sketches a three-dimensional look, an effect commonly found in western oil paintings.

他是一個用鉛筆為衚衕在紙上構築重安身之所的人。而其獨特的寬線條鉛筆畫風格被業內外人士公認為極能表達老北京衚衕風韻。在他的寬線條鉛筆畫下,勾勒出線面組合的物體,在自然光的照射下,暗色、灰色、亮色相互融合拼湊,匯合成古樸北京城裡最日常的生活、街道、衚衕。得益於寬線條筆觸帶來的質感,讓灰色的鉛筆畫多了一份西洋油畫般的立體效果。

「In 2002, I held two consecutive exhibitions in Beijing. Something unexpected happened during one of the exhibitions: an elderly woman came up to me in tears and said, 「You preserved my house. I don』t even have a photo of our house, the house that I lived in.」 In all honestly, my art is like a memento for people like her; I was able to help them find their way back home.

「2002年,我在北京市接連辦了兩個展覽,在畫展上,其實我是真沒想到。有的老太太抱著我哭,人家說:「你都把我的房子留下來了,我們家裡,我自己住的房子,連一張照片都沒留下來。」我的畫說到底就是一個念想,我們畫下來了,讓他們能找到自己的家。」

Prince Kung』s Mansion / 恭王府

Gulou West Street / 鼓樓西大街

Lanman Hutong / 爛漫衚衕

Kuang Han carries a camera and his drawing board every day. The weight of the equipment has formed calluses on his middle finger. Yet, this did not stop him from drawing.

由於每天背相機、夾畫板,況晗的中指已經磨出了黃豆大小的老繭,但他依然在畫。

「I will paint and sketch for as long as I can. One day, when I can』t anymore, I will search for other forms of expression, but that won』t happen today.」

「還能堅持畫一段時間,我就畫一段時間。畫不動了,我們用其他方式去表現,但我還得畫。」

The days of Hutong have long gone, but fortunately Mr. Kuang Han has con-tinued to document it with his art. He still uses his art to revive the Hutong culture of old Beijing.

雖然彼時衚衕中的歲月已經漸漸遠去,所幸還有一些如況晗先生這樣執著的畫家們,用自己的畫筆和對老北京的眷戀,將衚衕風情細細「道來」,讓我們這還能從這些藝術作品裡找到老北京最獨特的記憶。

According to figures, by 2011, the Beijing Municipal government has published 8 batches of Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level, encompassing a total 357 Hutongs, including famous ones such as Shijia Hutong, Zongmao Hutong, Weijia Hutong, and more.

據統計,截至2011年,北京市政府已經公布了八批文物保護單位名錄,包括史家衚衕、宗帽衚衕、魏家衚衕等,共計357個。

Cameraman: Wang Yusen

Film editor: Zhang Xiaomei, Lu Gengrui

Story written by: Nie Yaqi

English editor: John Goodrich

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