襯衣定製 | 當代紳士西裝指南 Part 2

時尚 04-07

　　As a modern gentleman you are accountable for your appearance. A man is always free to accept advice from others, but in the end he - and he alone - is responsible for how he presents himself to the world. To rely solely on your partner or friends for fashion advice is

　　foolhardyas everyone』s opinion will differ and nobody understands you quite as much as you do.

　　作為一個當代紳士，你必須對你的形象負責。你可以隨時向身邊的人諮詢，但最後還是由你自己來做決定，負責向這個世界展現你自己。因為每個人對時尚的見解是有所差別的，依靠你的伴侶和身邊的朋友給予的建議是有風險且帶有偏見，沒有人比你更了解你自己。

　　Definitely listen to others, but take their advice with a pinch of salt; the only freedom a man truly has is to make his own decisions.

　　別誤解我的意思，適當的聽取身邊人的意見還是非常有幫助的，但別人的意見也只是參考。能為自己的事情做決定是一個男人真正的自由。

　　That is why we』ve put together this Modern Gentleman』s Guide to Suits,

　　to help you make informed decisions about your wardrobe so you may create the image you wish to portray to others.

　　This is the second instalment, and it』s all about your shirt.

　　這也是為什麼我決定寫這一系列的當代紳士西裝指南 — 想要協助你在你所有的服飾中做出明智的選擇，為了讓你呈現給其他人你想給人留下的印象。

　　這是第二篇，關於你的襯衣。

　　1、COLLAR 衣領

　　With your top button fastened, you should be able to place two fingers between your neck and collar. Anything tighter will strangle you, anything looser is too large.

　　扣上最上面的那粒紐扣後，正確的鬆緊是你能夠把兩個手指塞到你的脖子和領子中間。太緊會掐到你，太松也不合身。

　　2、SHOULDER 肩膀

　　The seam should rest perfectly on the corner of your shoulder. Anything closer to your neck is too tight and will pull, anything further down your arm will be too loose.

　　襯衣的肩線應該剛好落在你的肩峰處。肩線太接近脖子會感覺太緊而產生拉扯感，肩線落於手臂又會感覺太松不合身。

　　3、BUTTONS 紐扣

　　Your buttons should do up easily from top to bottom, anything too tight will have the material pulling on each side and create gaps between each button. A shirt too loose will have extra material hanging on either side of your torso.

　　你應能輕鬆扣起從頂部到底部的每一粒紐扣並使襯衣平整，過小的襯衣紐扣紐起後會將布料拉扯到身體兩側導致內衣或皮膚外露，過大的襯衣又會將多餘的布料鬆散在你軀幹的兩邊。

　　4、SLEEVES & WAIST袖子和腰部

　　If your sleeves are too tight, the material will cut in to your armpit and you will be unable to roll your sleeves up past your elbow. If they are too loose, you will have too much excess material and folds will form when you place your hands by your side.

　　If the waist is too tight, the shape of your belly will be clear to all and your buttons around this area will pull.

　　Too loose and you will have excess material folds over your trousers when tucked in.

　　如果襯衣太小，袖子的布料就會因拉扯而堆積在你的腋窩處，你也無法將袖子折起超過你的肘關節。但如果襯衣太大，當你把雙手落於身體兩側，多餘的布料則會有褶皺形成。

　　如果腰部太緊，會將你肚子的形狀顯得更加明顯的同時將腰部的布料拉扯到身體兩側；而太松的話，當你將襯衣塞進褲子里時又會因多餘的布料露出而產生過大的褶皺。

　　5、CUFFS 袖口

　　There should be some breathing space between your wrist and your cuff. Be sure not to cut off circulation to your fingers with a tight cuff or leave too much space so that you can put your hand through without unbuttoning the cuff.

　　你的手腕和袖口之間應該有一些喘息的空間。不要把袖口系地太緊使得血流不暢通，也不要留下過多的空間讓你可以在紐扣扣上時也能輕鬆地將手穿進去。

　　NB:If you plan to wear a watch with your shirt, you will need to take this in to consideration and leave a little more space. Take the largest watch you plan to wear with you for the fitting.

　　注意：如果你習慣佩戴手錶就得留更多的空間。記得在定做時要帶上你體積最大的那塊表.

　　As for the length, the end of your cuff should reach the start of your hand, completely covering the bumps of your wrist. Anything too short will reveal those bumps and anything too long will either fold at the wrist or begin to cover part of your hand.

　　關於袖口的長度，應該剛好落在手臂和手掌的交界處，並完全覆蓋手腕凸起的骨頭上。不要短到能露出手腕上凸起的骨頭，也不要因為過長使得襯衣袖口布料堆積在手腕處或超過手腕覆蓋了部分手掌。

　　6、LENGTH 長度

　　The lowest button should rest on or just below (no more than 1cm) your trouser line, the material should nearly cover your zipper. Anything too short will come un-tucked when you move around or lift your arms. And anything too long will leave too much excess material around the waist.

　　最底部的紐扣應該剛好落在你的褲邊上或超過1cm左右的距離，布料應幾乎蓋住你的褲子拉鏈。太短會使得在活動或手臂抬起時襯衣從褲子里逃出來，太長則會有過多的布料落於你的腰部。

　　A little something extra: Shirt Collars

　　There are many different collar types to choose – over 20 that I am personally aware of – so I have chosen a few I believe deserve an individual mention.

　　特別提醒：衣領

　　有許多不同的

　　衣領類型可供選擇，我個人所知的已超過 20個。下面我選擇了幾個我個人認為是值得單獨提到的。