真我的女人：香奈兒

1883年於法國出生的嘉伯利·香奈兒（Gabriel Chanel）總會讓人聯想到浪漫與是非的話題上，縱使她是一個天才設計師。她說她不懂紙樣裁剪，但會在布料上用剪刀剪裁款式。20世紀初她是婦女解放先驅，是穿上褲子、放棄緊身胸衣的女強人；她的情史多多，坊間傳聞她在「二戰」期間與德軍官員漢斯·君特·馮·丁克拉格男爵（Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage）交往，更為納粹做事。她的人生充滿傳奇，可能年幼時在孤兒院生活欠佳，所以成長後不斷往上爬。

香奈兒別名「可可」（Coco），1909年她開創同名品牌，賣的是帽子，其後賣她所設計的衣服，1921年售賣她的「5號」香水，據說「5」是她的幸運號碼；1923年她推出著名的及膝套裝——深色衣料配上金色紐扣，更以珍珠鏈配襯； 1926年設計了經典的小黑裙，登在《VOGUE》雜誌上。

總體而言，她性格高傲、形象鮮明，喜愛男性化打扮，對自己的設計充滿信心。「二戰」後她欲捲土重來，但20世紀40年代不敵克里斯蒂安·迪奧（Christian Dior）的新形象。她於1971年1月10日逝世。我想每位女性不分年紀，都希望擁有一個香奈兒包包或一套鑲了花邊的套裝裙，或一支5號香水，因為這代表了一個傳奇女子的一生，也是女性的身份象徵！

最近5號香水轉用巴西名模吉賽爾·邦辰（Gisele Bundchen）做代言人，由好萊塢大導演巴茲·魯爾曼（Baz Luhrmann）操刀，拍出新時代女性的掙扎：我最想要的是愛情、家庭還是事業？正如香奈兒的一生：最愛是誰？

Born in France 1883，Gabriel Chanel always gave people an impression of romance but also stirring up lots of heat，though a talented fashion designer．She said she knew nothing about pattern making，but she could cut fabrics on a dummy straight away．It is also said she was a strong predecessor in women liberation as she wore pants and rejected to wear corsets by that time．Her love stories were quite a lot too．The most notorious one was she got along with a German officer Baron Hans Ginther von Dincklage during WWII and even worked for the Nazis．It is said that she had a miserable life when small，and she was even put in an orphanage for a while．Perhaps it is the reason why she grabbed every opportunity to get success when grown up.

Her nickname was Coco．In 1909 she started up her brand and opened her shop which sold millinery．Later on she sold her designed clothes．In 1921，she made her famous No．5 perfume and it is said「5」was her lucky number．In 1923 she made the remarkable knee length women suit by using dark colours of fabric trimmed with gold buttons together with a pearls-of-necklace as an accessory．In 1926，she designed the the famous little black dress and was advertised on Vogue.

To conclude，she was arrogant，sharp，and boyish in styling herself．She felt like she was No．1 in fashion．After WWII，she wanted to come back，however; she could not compete against「New Look」by Christian Dior in the 1940s．On Jan 10，1971 she died．Last，I think every woman likes Chanel whoever how old they are，they also hope that they can have a trimmed Chanel suit，or a bottle of No.5 because it means they own the lengardary woman—a priestigous representation of a woman status.

Recently Gisele Bundchen，a Brazilian model who was used a spokeman for No.5．With the help of a Hollywood director Baz Luhrmann，it projected a struggle on a new modern woman between love，family and career．In some way it also reflects on the life of Chanel — Who is the most she loved？

內容來源: 文章選自：《時尚有價》

作者：楊大偉, 著

出版：清華大學出版社

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