寶格麗的蛇，是最容易魅惑男性的配飾

We took a close look at The History & Present Of High Jewelry & Fine Watchmaking For Ladies By Bulgari, where we discovered some of the most important creations of the brand, both in the fields of jewelry and ladies watches. Today, the subject of our focus will be an unmistakably Bulgari creation, the timeless and ever-vicious snake, as represented by the Bulgari Serpenti.

我們仔細研究了寶格麗珠寶首飾和精美手錶的歷史和現狀，在珠寶和女士的手錶領域，我們發現了這個品牌的一些最重要的產品。今天，我們關注的焦點將是一個明顯的寶格麗創造——永恆的蛇。

First, the basics: why Serpenti? Coiling through human history, the symbolism of the seductive serpent dates back to ancient Greek and Roman mythology. A motif representing wisdom, vitality, and the circle of life, the snake has charmed exotic beauties from Cleopatra to the Bulgari woman, and empowered them with its magnetism. Renowned for the ability to hypnotize its prey - this skill is attributed to no other animal – the snake is also famous for its means of seduction. With a hypnotic brilliance of color and a lithe wearability, the Serpenti woman embodies a sensual elegance: she is the modern-day queen of the Nile.

首先講最基本的一個問題：為什麼是蛇？在人類歷史上，盤繞、魅惑的蛇的象徵意義可以追溯到古希臘和羅馬神話。這條蛇象徵著智慧、活力和生命的輪迴，以其誘捕獵物的能力而聞名，這一技能被認為是其他動物所不具備的。擁有一種催眠般的色彩和一種輕盈的可穿戴性，蛇女化身為優雅的當代尼羅河女王。

In the 1940s, wristwatches assumed the form of the sinuous snake in a reinterpretation of jewelry traditions dating to Hellenistic and Roman times. As such, the first Bulgari Serpenti models featured a flexible body of gleaming yellow gold, head and tail set with brilliant diamonds. The precious snakes to follow featured scales of gemstones or polychrome enamel, others were coiled with the supple Tubogas technique, a Bulgari hallmark.

在20世紀40年代，腕錶重新詮釋希臘和羅馬時代的珠寶傳統，呈現出蜿蜒曲折的蛇形。就這樣，第一個寶格麗蛇的模型誕生，展示了一個柔韌的身體，閃閃發光的金黃色，頭和尾鑲有明亮的鑽石。這些珍貴的蛇以寶石或多色琺琅的鱗片為特徵，另一些則被柔韌的管狀氣體技術所纏繞，這是寶格麗的標誌。

Over the decades, the Bulgari Serpenti collection has seen more than numerous but equally creative iterations, as the snake motif has moved on from simple bracelets to two- and multiple-row timepieces curling around the wrist and the neck, all the way to other items, playing the small but vitally important role of the finishing and defining touch on Bulgari rings, bags, sunglasses, and other accessories.

幾十年來，寶格麗Serpenti集合了眾多但同樣極富創造性的迭代，當蛇的圖案已經從簡單的手鐲到兩個，再到多行鐘錶捲曲在手腕和脖子上，再到所有其他物品：寶格麗戒指、包、太陽鏡和其他配件等，所有小的配件都有極其重要的意義。

Given this prominent role, and the elevated noticeability of Bulgari Serpenti jewelry and watches, all pieces, regardless of their function, have to mix tasteful and vivid colors with complicated manufacturing techniques, the most renowned and closely linked to Bulgari being the Tubogas technique.

考慮到這一突出的作用，以及寶格麗蛇的珠寶和手錶的高知名度，所有的作品，無論它們的功能如何，都必須將有品位和生動的色彩與複雜的製造技術結合起來，其中最著名的、也與寶格麗的聯繫最為緊密的便是tubogas技術。

The so-called tubogas (or gas-pipe) technique was developed during the second half of the nineteenth century and used by Bulgari on the first Serpenti watch creations of the 1940s and 1950s. The term 「tubogas」 was inspired by the distinctive shape of the gas carrier pipes in use from the 1920s onwards. This motif was revived by Bulgari in the 1970s, and employed so effectively in the creation of watches, bracelets, necklaces and rings that it became one of the firm』s trademarks. The Bulgari Tubogas is a flexible band with rounded contours produced without soldering.

所謂的tubogas技術（煤氣管技術）是在十九世紀下半葉發展起來的，由寶格麗在上世紀40年代和50年代的第一個蛇頭手錶上使用。「tubogas」這個詞的靈感來源於20世紀20年代以來使用的氣體運輸船的獨特形狀。這個主題在1970年代由寶格麗復興，在手錶、手鐲、項鏈和戒指的製作中得到了有效的運用，成為公司的商標之一。寶格麗錶帶是靈活的帶圓形輪廓的錶帶，沒有焊接。

In practice, the result is a shorter or longer bracelet (depending on the piece of jewelry or watch model in question) that is remarkably flexible to allow for comfortable wear – not always a property linked to fine jewelry or watches – while remaining firmly coiled around the wrist, arm, or neck.

在實踐中，手鐲的製造時間是非常靈活的（取決於件首飾或觀看模型問題），而且它並不總是一個屬性，珠寶首飾或手錶都能說得通，可以纏繞在手腕、手臂或頸部。

As Bulgari explains, the realization of a Tubogas band requires hours of specialist work: it involves wrapping two long gold strips with raised edges around a copper or wood core in such a way that the edges then firmly interlock with each other to form a continuous unsoldered piece; the core is then removed or dissolved in acid. The flexibility of these metallic bands is truly remarkable, and has been employed with splendid results. The quest for chromatic effects resulted in the creation of alternating yellow, pink, and white gold strips as well as bracelets that changed color with every coil. In the 1970s, the use of grey steel in combination with yellow gold was also introduced.

對此，寶格麗解釋說，一個tubogas的實現需要長時間的專業工作。這些金屬帶的柔韌性確實非凡，另外對彩色效果的追求產生了交替的黃色、粉色和白色的黃金條，如此才能造出每一個線圈改變顏色的手鐲。到了20世紀70年代，寶格麗還引入了灰鋼和黃金的結合。

Beyond pure technique, color is another of the most recognizable features of a Bulgari creation – made evident in the sparkling eyes of the Bulgari Serpenti or the splashes of bracelet-color on red-carpet celebrities. Beyond its vast experience, Bulgari is known for its innovation with color, employing gemstones and unusual materials that have literally never been seen before – this results in bold new collections and made-to-order, unique pieces of extremely fine jewelry or watches. Developing this bold and unprecedented style, Bulgari has explored uncommon color combinations of semi-precious and precious stones, and invented the gemstone rainbow.

在純技術之外，顏色是寶格麗創造的另一個最容易辨認的特徵——在寶格麗蛇的閃爍的眼睛裡，在紅地毯上的名人身上，這是顯而易見的。寶格麗以其色彩的創新而聞名，使用的是寶石和從未見過的非同尋常的材料——這就產生了大膽的新藏品和定做的、獨特的珠寶或手錶。寶格麗開發了這種空前的風格，探索了半寶石和寶石的不同尋常的色彩組合，並發明了寶石彩虹。

The Bulgari Serpenti builds on a vast and extremely rich cultural background through the historical and emblematic significance of the snake: as we noted in our introduction, the serpent is a seductive symbol dating back to ancient Greek and Roman mythology. Representing wisdom, vitality, and the circle of life, the serpent has transcended centuries, traditions and cultures to become the emblem of beauty and strength: adorning Aphrodite, the goddess of love; held by Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine; the snake』s power is undeniably linked with humanity.

寶格麗蛇是在一個巨大而極其豐富的文化背景中創造出來的，它的歷史和象徵意義是蛇：正如在開頭中提到的，蛇是一個誘人的符號，可以追溯到古希臘和羅馬神話。代表智慧、活力和生命輪迴的蛇已經超越了世紀、傳統和文化，成為美麗和力量的象徵。愛神阿佛洛狄忒、希臘醫學之神阿斯克勒庇俄斯，這些都說明蛇的力量不可否認地與人類聯繫在一起。

伊麗莎白·泰勒戴著她的金寶格麗蛇

The history of civilization is intertwined with this emblem – even Queen Victoria was seduced in the 19th century, preferring a serpent-shaped engagement ring. Perhaps no leader of the world is more closely associated with serpents than Cleopatra, whose royal décor and divine powers revered the sinuous snake. The motif reigns equally as mythical in the current day, evident in a jeweled serpentine history, encapsulated by the Bulgari Serpenti.

甚至維多利亞女王也在19世紀被誘惑，喜歡上了蛇形狀的訂婚戒指。也許世界上沒有哪個領袖比克利奧帕特拉更能與蛇聯繫在一起，克利奧帕特拉的皇家裝飾和神聖的力量都崇敬著這條蜿蜒曲折的蛇。這一主題在當今時代同樣是神話，在寶石的蛇形歷史中很明顯，它是由寶格麗蛇所封裝的。

Whether interpreted in a realistic or geometrically abstract manner, the serpent encircles the most iconic Bulgari hallmarks together: a love for color, the juxtaposition of materials, a supple wearability, and innovative artisanal techniques. From rings, through timepieces, to entire collections, from simple everyday accessories all the way to the finest creations in high jewelry, the Bulgari Serpenti is more alive than it has ever been.

無論是以寫實的還是幾何的抽象方式來解釋，蛇都是寶格麗的標誌：對顏色的愛、對材料的搭配、柔軟的耐磨性以及創新的手工技術。從戒指、手錶、到整個集合，從簡單的日常配件到最好的作品高珠寶，寶格麗Serpenti比以往任何時候都更有活力。

原文來自ablogtowatch，表汪譯，歡迎指正。

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