測評：康斯登飛返計時碼錶

本文由W&W專業腕錶測評網站出品

發條魚原創翻譯

The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture represents the brand s recent efforts to develop high quality in-house movements with complications at a very reasonable price point. While haute horologerie is a bit of a stretch, this movement, along with the in-house perpetual calendar found in the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, is an impressive achievement for the brand and its technical team.

Frederique Constant Flyback飛返計時碼錶，代表品牌努力嘗試在很合理的價格點上研發高質量、複雜的的自家機芯。高級製表技術得到了延伸，這個機芯以及在製造內部日曆中的萬年曆，都是品牌及其技術團隊令人印象深刻的成就。

The caliber FC-760 is a modular movement with a column wheel activated flyback chronograph complication. To reset and start a traditional chronograph, you have to first stop it with the top pusher and then reset it using the bottom pusher. The flyback functionality circumvents this and you can reset the hands to zero while it s still running. This is useful when you have to time successive intervals with minimal delay, like lap times on a race track for example. The other interesting feature of the flyback module, is the column wheel.

FC-760機芯是一款具有柱輪激活的回掃複雜的計時碼錶機芯。要重置和啟動傳統的計時碼錶，您必須先用頂部推桿停止，然後使用底部推桿重新設置。反激功能規避了這一點，您可以在手錶仍然運行時將它重置為零。當您以最小的延遲以連續的間隔進行連續時間，例如賽道上的圈數時，這種方式很有用。反激組件的另一個有意思的特徵是柱輪。

Generally considered to be superior to cam activation, a column wheel mechanism is also more expensive to manufacture, especially in this case as Frederique Constant uses a patented star-shaped column wheel which it claims provides a smoother operating feel while using fewer parts. I reckon that the motivation behind simplifying the mechanism is not just for bragging rights, but to also increase the robustness of the movement and make it easier to service and maintain, something modular chronographs are not well known for.

通常認為柱輪機構優於凸輪激活，柱輪機構的製造也更昂貴，特別是在這種情況下，由於康斯登使用獲得專利的星形柱輪，其所聲稱的在使用較少部件時提供更平滑的操作感覺。我認為，簡化機制的動機不僅僅是吹牛的權利，而且還增加了運動的堅固性，並使其更容易維護和維護，某種模塊化計時碼錶並不為人所知。

Frederique Constant has also realized that good watchmaking is equal parts sound mechanics and refined design/finishing. The movement is well decorated with perlage, Geneva stripes, and heat-blued screws, which are not often seen at this price point. A rose-gold plated steel rotor tops off the entire movement, which is of course visible through a sapphire crystal case back. My only concern with the movement is its relatively low power reserve of 38 hours, but it s forgivable here considering the overall value.

康斯登也認識到，良好的製表是相同等級的零件結構和精緻的設計/精加工。這個運動裝飾精美，日常條紋和熱藍色螺絲，在這個價格點上經常看不到。一個玫瑰金鍍鋼轉子頂部整個機芯，這當然可以通過藍寶石水晶錶殼背面看到。我唯一關心的是38小時的動力儲備相對較低，但考慮到整體價值，這是可以原諒的。

While the movement is definitely where most of the interesting bits of the watch are, the dial and the rest of the watch aren t far off. The watch is immediately recognizable as a dressy chronograph suitable for daily wear. The refined dial, with baton indexes and lumed alpha hands, makes for a tasteful presentation. While the dial layout is similar to a three register chronograph, a closer look will reveal that the sub-dial at 6 o clock is not an hour totalizer but a date display. I think this was a smart design choice as a date window would have definitely ruined the overall aesthetic of the watch, especially if they had placed it at 4:30 like we ve seen in many other chronographs.

雖然機芯絕對是手錶的大部分有趣的地方，錶盤和手錶的其餘部分也一樣有意思。這手錶立即評為是適合日常穿著的正裝計時碼錶。精緻的錶盤，棒形指針，讓您感受到美觀、優雅。而刻度盤上有三個計時錶盤，仔細觀察顯示，6點鐘的子錶盤不是一個小時的累加器，而是一個日期顯示。我認為這是一個聰明的設計選擇，因為日期窗口肯定會破壞手錶的整體美感，特別是如果將它放在4:30，就像我們在許多其他計時碼錶中看到的那樣（普通）。

The dial is completed by a railway track chapter ring and a rather minuscule pulsometer scale. The addition of the pulsometer offers little utility and I can t help but feel that the watch would be just as good, if not better with it left off. The dial is offered in three variants; silver, dark gray, and silver with a hobnail texture. The hobnail textured dial is the black sheep of the group and comes with Roman numeral indexes instead of batons, Breguet hands, and no pulsometer scale.

錶盤由鐵路軌道圈設計和相當微小的脈搏計量表完成。脈搏計的添加提供了較少的實用性，我感覺作用不大，如果沒有變得更好，這就要捨棄。錶盤有三種型號：銀色、深灰色和銀色帶有平頭釘的紋理。平頭釘的紋理錶盤是系列中比較特別的款式，帶有羅馬數字指標而不是棒形時標，寶璣指針，無脈搏計。

All of this is housed in a 42mm case, offered either in stainless steel or rose-gold plated stainless steel options. The rectangular chronograph pushers and fluted crown help complete the dress watch look. While the bezel on the case is thin and leaves the dial in the limelight, the lugs are interestingly finished with a brushed top, polished sides, and for lack of a better way to describe it, have a perlage edge instead of the usual sharp edge. This lug design, with the thin but rounded case helps slim down the appearance of the watch, making it look smaller on the wrist than you might expect. The watch has a 50m water resistance rating, which can be seen as somewhat of a standard for dress watches.

所有這些都放置在42mm的錶殼中，提供不鏽鋼或玫瑰金鍍不鏽鋼的選擇。長方形計時碼錶推拉器和有凹槽的錶冠有助於打造正裝手錶的外形。雖然錶殼上的表圈很薄，讓錶盤成為注目點，但表耳有趣地完成了一個拉絲的頂部，拋光的表耳面，缺乏更好的方式來描述它，就是具有圓潤珍珠般的邊緣而不是通常的鋒利邊緣。這種表耳設計，薄但圓形的外殼有助於減輕手錶的外觀，使其在手腕上看起來比您所期望的更輕、小。 手錶具有50米防水等級，可以看作是正裝手錶的一個標準。

While all available combinations of dial and case look good, my favorite is the stainless steel version with a dark gray dial. Unfortunately, the steel with dark gray dial and rose-gold with silver hobnail dial are not available within the US. All watches ship with an alligator leather strap and a rather unique looking deployant. I should mention here, that the same movement within a functionally similar watch is available from Alpina (which is owned by Frederique Constant), in the guise of the Alpina 4 Flyback Chronograph. However, the prices are not far off from each other, and this looks significantly better in my opinion.

雖然錶盤和錶殼的所有可用組合看起來都很好，但我最喜歡的是帶有深灰色錶盤的不鏽鋼版本。不幸的是，在美國境內沒有提供帶有深灰色錶盤和玫瑰金鍍銀銀色錶盤的不鏽鋼版。所有手錶都配有鱷魚皮錶帶和相當獨特的外觀設計。我應該在這裡提到，同一個機芯也運用在Alpina（由Frederique Constant所有）在功能類似手錶中，就是艾沛勒Alpina 4 Flyback計時碼錶中。不過，價格相差並不遙遠，看起來比我想像中要好。

I ve never been the biggest fan of Frederique Constant s offerings in the past, mostly due to not feeling a real emotional response to many of them, but if the Flyback Chronograph Manufacture is a sign of things to come, then I will be paying close attention to them in the future. Sure, the design may not be revolutionary, but this watch isn t about innovative design. It s about the movement and offering watch enthusiasts a mechanically interesting piece in a classic, familiar aesthetic. It s a refreshing and welcome example of the kind of value proposition the watch world can use more of. The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture is available at retailers and online for $3,995 in steel and $4,295 in rose-gold plated steel.

過去，我從來不是Frederique Constant產品的最大粉絲，主要是由於沒有感覺到對他們真正的情感，但是如果Flyback計時碼錶製造是未來的一個標誌，那麼我會在未來密切的注意他們。當然，設計可能不是革命性的，但是這款手錶也不是創新的設計。這是關於機芯提供給機械錶手錶愛好者增添有趣的經典的審美，手錶世界可以使用更多的這種價值主張，這是一個令人耳目一新的令人愉快的例子。康斯登Frederique Constant飛返計時碼錶在零售商和在線獲得$ 3,995鋼鐵和$ 4,295玫瑰鍍金鋼。

以上就是關於康斯登Frederique Constant Flyback計時碼錶的測評翻譯，大家在閱讀過程中有更好翻譯表達方式的話歡迎提出指正。

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