14年風靡全球的飛織為何現在還在鞋業界屹立不倒？

最新 02-07

Rema, Ben Shaffer/ 作

Suri/ 譯

從2014年NIKE研發出電腦橫機編織鞋面（Computerized Flat Knitting Upper)並命名為大家所熟知的Flyknit (飛織）開始，這項原本用於織毛衣的技術通過機器的改良迅速地火遍了運動鞋業，adidas的Primeknit技術,Under Armour的Microthread技術，都是這項技術在各自品牌的運用。

adidas的Primeknit技術

Under Armour的Microthread技術

NIKE的Flynit技術

今天我們就以NIKE的Flynit為例，來探討一下飛織這個持續升溫的話題。首先回顧一下：

NIKE has engineered knit for performance to create running footwear that features only the essentials. Employing a new technology called Nike Flyknit, yarns and fabric variations are precisely engineered only where they are needed for a featherweight, formfitting and virtually seamless upper.

耐克公司設計了針織技術以創造出只具備基本要素的跑步鞋。但現在採用的技術——Nike Flyknit，紗線和面料的變化經過精密地設計用於極輕的、合腳的和近乎無接縫的鞋面。

With all the structure and support knitted in, the Nike Flyknit Racer』s upper and tongue weigh just 34 grams (1.2 ounces). The whole shoe weighs a mere 160g (5.6 ounces) for a size 9, which is 19% lighter than the Nike Zoom Streak 3, a shoe worn by first, second and third place athletes in the men』s marathon at the 2011 World Championships.

在所有的結構和支撐的支撐下編入，Nike Flyknit Racer的鞋面和鞋舌重量僅為34克。這隻鞋的重量僅為160g，比Nike Zoom Streak3要輕19%，這是2011年世界錦標賽男子馬拉松比賽前三名運動員所穿的鞋。

While reducing shoe weight is one aspect of helping runners, the Nike Flyknit upper is also engineered for a precision fit, creating a feeling of a second skin.

雖然減少鞋的重量是幫助跑步者的其中一個方面，但是Nike Flyknit的鞋面也設計了一個精密的貼合度，給人一種第二層肌膚的感覺。

An additional environmentally sustainable benefitto Nike Flyknit is that it reduces waste because the one-piece upper does not use the multiple materials and material cuts used in traditional sports footwear manufacture. Nike Flyknit is truly a minimalist design with maximum return.

對於NIKE Flyknit來說，它的可回收環保效益就是是它減少浪費，因為整片的鞋面不同於傳統運動鞋製造中的工藝，運用的多種材料和部件。Nike Flyknit確實是一個極簡主義的設計，並且伴隨著極大的回報。

The inspiration for Nike Flyknit was born from the common runner feedback, craving a shoe with the qualities of a sock: a snug fit that goes virtually unnoticed to the wearer.

Nike Flyknit的靈感來自於跑步者們的反饋，渴望鞋子能有襪子般的質感:怎麼移動都能貼合雙腳，讓穿鞋者都察覺不到它的存在。

But all the features that make a sock desirable have proven to make them a bad choice for a running upper. An inherently dynamic material like yarn generally has no structure or durability.

但是，以襪子為理想特徵的鞋面都被推翻為是不可行的選擇。像紗線這樣固有的有活力的材料通常沒有結構或者耐用性。

NIKE embarked on a four-year mission of micro-engineering static properties into pliable materials. It required teams of programmers, engineers and designers to create the proprietary technology needed to create the knit upper.

耐克公司開始了一項為期四年的工程，將微工程的靜態特性轉化為柔軟的材料。它需要程式設計師、工程師和設計師組成的團隊來創造出創造針織衫的專利技術。

The next steps were to map out where the specific yarn and knit structures were needed. Applying 40 years of knowledge from working with runners, NIKE refined the precise placement of support, flexibility and breathability – all in one layer.

接下來的步驟是繪製出具體的紗線和針織結構的具體位置。通過與跑步者合作的40年，耐克精確地定位了支撐、柔韌性和呼吸能力的精確位置——都依賴於這一片薄薄的鞋面。

Let』s listen to Ben Shaffer of Nike as he highlights the features and benefits of the Nike Flyknit technology:

看看NIKE公司的Ben Shaffer如何評價飛織，他強調了NIKE Flyknit技術的特點和優勢:

Nike Flyknit is a very unique way that we have revolutionized how we make footwear. We have taken something as simple as knitting and re-engineered that into a performance product. It gives a really unique sense of fit, comfort and our athletes are giving us amazing feedback.

Nike Flyknit是一種使用非常獨特的技術顛覆了從前製鞋的方式。我們運用了最簡單的針織技術，再把它改造成一個性能產品。它給人一種獨特的感覺，讓人感到舒適，讓我們的運動員給我們驚人的反饋。

Just to give you a little inside information：within the innovation kitchen, every time we are working on a new product or any new project, our ultimate client is our athletes. So it is extremely important for us to be working with them one-to-one, figuring out what』s the best combination for them for their performance needs.

他還給我們透露了一些內部信息：每當我們在做一個新產品或任何新項目的時候，我們的最終客戶就是我們的運動員。因此，對我們來說，與他們一對一地合作是非常重要的，找出他們的最終需求是什麼。

With Nike Flyknit, there arefour key benefits. They include:

Nike Flyknit有四個關鍵的優勢。包括:

Lightness

輕盈

Form fitting

外形貼合

Sustainability

可持續性

Performance

性能優越

These four are ultimately the core of our Nike DNA.

這四個是耐克的核心DNA。

For lightness, every runner would love to have a lighter product; it』s less weight that they』ll have to carry to the finish line. With the Flyknit racer, it』s 19 percent lighter than the previous marathon shoe.

對於輕盈，每個跑步者都喜歡有較輕的鞋子; 他們要到達終點線的過程中攜帶的重量要輕很多。這款Flyknit racer的重量比之前的馬拉松鞋輕了19%。

Lightness, when paired with form fitting becomes an amazing experience. The more we can allow the upper to fit one-to-one with the foot, the better that lightweight experience can be amplified. So with Flyknit, we have engineered the fabric to have cables, very similar to our fly-wire, wrapping nicely around your foot. So that when our athlete laces into the shoe, it becomes an amazingly enhanced experience. We』ve received great compliments, about the shoe feeling so much like a glove.

輕盈與貼合度配合成為一種令人驚艷的體驗。我們越是讓鞋面貼合每一種腳型，那麼輕量級的體驗就越能被放大。因此，對於Flyknit，我們已經設計了這種帶有纖索的布料，非常類似於我們的飛線，纏繞著你的腳。因此，當我們的運動員在系鞋帶的時候，這種體驗無與倫比。我們已經收到了很多讚美，說鞋子的感覺就像一隻手套。

On the sustainability』s side, with this new technology we』ve utilized just what we needed to make the upper. So instead of cutting and stumping shoes out and having excess material, we knit everything out and get the whole body from the machine.

在可持續性方面，用這項新技術，利用了到了我們需要的最基本的東西。所以，我們不是把鞋子剪下來，在加上其餘的材料，而是把所有的東西都織出來，直接從機器里拿出一張完整的鞋面。

With performance, we look very much at how our products interact with our athletes. How we use Flyknit for instance, to work much more closely with our athletes. Moving directly with how their foot moves. The more we are able to compliment their actions and their movements, the more that we allow them to perform much better. And our performance is how to give them the podium.

Nike was the first to spearhead the trend, Adidas, too, has experimented with integrating wool into its designs, specifically its Primeknit upper-engineered Ultra Boosts. And Puma has found a place for wool with its knit mesh fabrication .

耐克是第一個引領潮流的，阿迪達斯也嘗試將羊毛融入其設計中，特別是它的早期的Ultra Boosts。Puma已經找到了將羊毛織網相結合的面料。在時尚界Flat knit技術運用地也十分廣泛，頻頻出現在各大秀場。

A striped chunky sport sole paid homage to House Codes (the original rainbow style from the Twenties), while knitted uppers called to mind a decidedly current shoe phenomenon: knitted sneakers — Mosha Lundstrom Halbert

在17年Salvatore Ferragamo春季時裝秀上，一雙條紋厚重的鞋底是對House Codes的致敬(20年代最初的經典彩虹款)，而針織鞋則是追隨現在最流行的鞋子元素:針織運動鞋——Mosha Lundstrom Halbert

For spring, women』s brands are getting crafty with crochet detailing. The creative look adds bohemian flair to flats, heels and booties.

對於春季，女性品牌Enzo Angiolini在編織細節上變得更加「心機」。這種創造性的外表和性能讓人對平底鞋、高跟鞋和靴子增添了一种放盪不羈的風格。

The lace-up version of the Balenciaga Speed Knit Runner, the Italian-made kicks retain all of the features that made the original Speed Knit Runner a hit — including the knitted bootie fit and chunky segmented midsole — but introduce a traditional lacing system to the upper, allowing for an even snugger fit than before.

Balenciaga Speed Knit Runner的一個系帶款。義大利製鞋工藝保留了其原版Speed Knit Runner所有的特點，包括針織靴的貼合度和厚重的中底——但在鞋面引入了傳統的系帶設計，比之前的設計更加合腳。

The defining feature of Balenciaga』s popular Speed Knit Runner is undoubtedly its slip-on sock shoe construction, but that didn』t stop the buzzing brand from adding shoelaces to the otherwise minimalistic model.

Balenciaga很受歡迎的Speed Knit Runner的定義特徵無疑是它懶人襪子鞋的構造，但這並沒有阻止這個紅的發紫的品牌把鞋帶加到這個極簡主義的款式中。

可以看得出，時尚界跟運動界對於飛織技術運用的側重點是不一樣的，時尚界跟注重於簡潔的設計感，特殊紗線的使用等來迎合時尚的需要。那麼問題來了，時尚界的飛織供應商去哪兒找呢？

小編在此推薦優質供應商一枚：

Xiamen Dahefeng Knitting Co., Ltd

廈門達和豐針織有限公司

Established in 2004,Xiamen Dahefeng Knitting Co., Ltd. is located in the elegant Xiang』an District of Xiamen City. The company develops, manufactures, and sells professional 3D knitted upper for shoes. After many years of pioneering works, the company has gathered a high-quality management and marketing team, along with a group of outstanding technical personnel, offering a range of services from design to production.

廈門達和豐針織有限公司成立於二00四年，位於環境優雅的廈門市祥安區，是一家集研發、生產及銷售服務為一體的專業化3D鞋面針織供應商，經過多年的創業拼搏，凝聚了一支高素質的管理、行銷團隊和一批傑出的科技人才，提供從設計到生產的一系列服務。

With strong R & D capability and the spirit of innovation, Dahefeng created their own materials, likewool yarn + glitter knitting and Icy yarn knitting:

達和豐還在堅持自主創新研發，推出了羊毛+格麗特和冰涼紗等新型面料：