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18年秀場錦集:TOM FORD,CHANNEL和JOHN VARVATOS

Shannon Adducci, Nikara Johns, Stephanie Hirschmiller/作

Suri/ 譯

Tom Ford Closes Fall 2018 Runway Show

Tom Ford 2018年秋季t台

Tom Ford fall 2018.

Leaving one』s socks on is a well-known no-no for guys looking to . . . impress. But leave it to Tom Ford, international man of sex appeal, to counteroffer the bedroom rule.

對那些想要給別人留下好印象的男性們來說,穿襪子對於是一個眾所周知的禁忌。但Tom Ford,這位國際化的性感男人,來反駁這條不成文兩性規則。

He closed his fall 2018 men』s show with models donning nothing more than statement undies (in metallics, animal prints and more) with simple woolen socks in shades of nude and black. After a women』s pre-fall season full of socks and hosiery, the showing suggests that fall 2018 is quickly becoming sock season, too.

他結束了2018年秋季男裝秀,模特們只套上打底衣和簡單的裸色或黑色羊毛襪(金屬色、動物圖案等等)。在經歷了一襪子的秋季預展後,2018年秋季也會迅速成為「襪子季」。

Tom Ford fall 2018.

Socks weren』t the only footwear advice that Ford suggested. The designer started the show with an assembly of hybrid sneaker-loafers, in shades of suede with tassels and thick rubber soles. Paired with the designer』s supple leather jackets, it was a clear daytime look but also one that could be co-opted for evening wear.

襪子並不是Ford建議的唯一的建議。這位設計師開始了一場由球鞋-休閑鞋混搭的時裝秀,帶有小山羊皮色、流蘇和厚橡膠底等元素。與設計師的柔軟皮夾克搭配在一起,這很明顯是白天設計的造型,但也是晚裝的一種選擇。

The night was also high on shine, both on the runway and in the front row: Guests like Trevor Noah, Cordell Broadus and Russell Wilson donned Ford』s signature dinner jackets in metallic brocade, while wilder versions were shown in rose gold foil and gold metallic thread.

整個晚上觀眾眼裡都閃著金星,無論是在秀場上還是在前排: 像Trevor Noah、Cordell Broadus和Russell Wilson這樣的客人都穿著Ford的標誌性的金屬色綢緞晚禮服,然而更狂野一點的則是用玫瑰金箔色和金色金屬紋。

Paired with slick Chelsea boots in metallic silver, gold and python, the result was a classic Tom Ford statement look all around.

與絲綢Chelsea靴子搭配金屬銀、金色和蟒蛇元素,都是是Tom Ford經典的look。

Cordell Broadus.

The Jonas Brothers Reunited at John Varvatos』 Fall 』18 Runway Show

喬納斯兄弟在John Varvatos的18年秋季時裝秀上重聚

Nick Jonas at John Varvatos.

John Varvatos gave winter fashion a streetwear makeover at his men』s runway show in New York on Friday night. The designer showcased layered looks .

周五晚上,John Varvatos在紐約的男裝秀上做了一場時尚的改革,設計師展示了這次系列的混搭造型。

The Jonas Brothers reunited for the show, which took place in at Angel Orensanz Center, a former lower East Side Gothic revival synagogue.

喬納斯兄弟(Jonas Brothers)重聚在Angel Orensanz Center,這是一個前東區的哥特式復興猶太教堂。

Nick Jonas, who sat front row next to siblings Kevin and Joe, just announced his collaboration with the brand, which includes a co-branded capsule collection. The limited-edition line will debut for spring, when Jonas also becomes the new face of John Varvatos.

Nick Jonas和他的兄弟姐妹Kevin和Joe一起坐在前排,他剛剛宣布了與該品牌的正式合作,其中包括一個共同品牌的膠囊系列。限量版系列將在春季上市,屆時,Jonas成員們也將成為John Varvatos的新面孔。

Iggy Azalea in the front row.

Other celebrities attending the event, which was timed to coincide with Grammys Weekend in New York, included Iggy Azalea, Gina Gershon and Thomas Rhett.

參加這次活動的其他名人,包括了伊Iggy Azalea、Thomas Rhett和Gina Gershon,同時也是紐約的格萊美頒獎禮,。

As for the footwear, the designer ditched all things slim and sleek this season. Instead, chunky trainers with hefty soles were sent down the runway in brown, cream and black colorways, along with weighty leather boots. All shoes were paired with marled-wool socks — which were on display with the cropped and wide-leg pants worn by the models.

至於鞋子,這位設計師在本季放棄了所有關於苗條和時尚的東西。取而代之的是,厚底鞋的厚重的運動鞋,使用棕色、奶油色和黑色的配色,以及沉重的皮靴,沿著秀場向下走。所有的鞋子都配上了帶長毛毛的羊毛襪,這些襪子都搭配著模特們穿的寬腿褲。

John Varvatos fall 2018.Rex Shutterstock

These wintry ensembles were completed with leather parkas, duster coats, velvet bombers and beanie hats.

這些冬裝都是用皮大衣、防塵外套、天鵝絨和無檐帽來組成。

Varvatos mixed his rock n』 roll and Americana roots into the show by feature Jimi Henrdrix』s guitar-heavy 「Star Spangled Banner,」 for the finale as he stood on stage with the models, hand over heart. The designer threw up the peace sign to conclude the event.

Jimi Henrdrix把他的搖滾和美國根融合在一起,Varvatos的重吉他彈出的「Star Spangled Banner」作為壓軸,和模特們站在一起,手放在胸膛上。設計師拋出了和平標誌來結束了這次活動。

John Varvatos fall 』18.

Kaia Gerber Makes Her Couture Runway Debut at Chanel

Kaia Gerber在香奈兒時裝秀上首次亮相

Kaia Gerber walking for Chanel.

On the heels of an exceptional Fashion Month in which she graced nearly every prestigious runway during the?spring 』18 ready-to-wear season and the news that she』s designing a fashion collection with Karl Lagerfeld, Kaia Gerber crossed off another first: Her couture runway debut at Chanel.

緊接著這個18年高級成衣特別時裝月,她登上了幾乎所有著名的秀場,而她正在設計與Karl Lagerfeld的時裝系列,Karl Lagerfeld則在另一場時裝秀上,又一次在香奈兒的t台上亮相。

The 16-year-old model walked through Chanel』s traditional 17th century garden at its spring 』18 couture show in an extraordinary feather- and floral-embellished pink dress, complete with a Plexi-heeled, 3-D-appliquéd boots.

這名16歲的模特走過18年香奈兒第17屆「世紀花園」,穿著一件特別的帶有羽毛和印花裝飾的粉色連衣裙,搭配了一雙有Plexi靴子。

Kaia Gerber for Chanel.

And it』s these boots and their heel shape that might sound the death knell of the traditional kitten heel. The new shape du jour is a hybrid of a kitten and a wedge heel.

正是這些靴子和鞋跟的形狀,敲響了傳統的貓跟的喪鐘。現在的新形狀是一隻小貓和一個楔子的混合

Created by Chanel footwear designer, Laurence Dacade, it stands at the same height as a kitten but gives the wearer more ballast due to its larger proportions and the fact that it slopes down to meet the ball of the foot. A small arch in the middle gives the impression of lightness.

這款鞋是由香奈兒的設計師Laurence Dacade設計的,它與一隻小貓的高度一樣,但由於它的比例更大一些,而且它的斜坡是為了滿足腳的需求。中間的一個小拱門給人一種輕盈的感覺。

Chanel spring 』18 haute couture.

The good news is that the demi has practically the same level of comfort as a more traditional wedge but without the clunkiness. Who knows, it might even win over a die-hard wedge fan like the Duchess of Cambridge.

好消息是,它幾乎和傳統的鞋跟一樣舒適,但沒有沉重的感覺。誰知道呢,它甚至可能會贏得像劍橋公爵夫人這樣的鐵杆粉絲。

There were two versions — an ankle bootie and a midcalf version — imagined in a plethora of finishes, including tweed and 3-D appliqué, matched to the ensembles themselves. There were also versions done in nylon, velvet, patent and a gorgeous second-skin calf leather.

這個款有兩種版本,分別是短靴和長靴——上面有大量的裝飾,包括粗花呢和3-d-app貼片,它們與套裝本身相匹配。並且在材質上也有不同版本:尼龍、天鵝絨、專利皮或是華麗的二層牛皮。

Chanel spring 』18 haute couture.

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