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一、成衣量度點及名稱圖示

二、領 Collar

1

領的款式(Collar Type)

A、上級領 (Top Collar)

a.尖領 (Point Collar)

b.直尖領 (Straight Point Collar)

c.英式領 (English Collar)

d.一字領 (Spread Collar)

e.八字領 (Spread Collar)

f.領嘴鈕領 (Button Down Collar)

g.暗領嘴鈕領(1) 【Hidden Button Down Collar(1)】

h.暗領嘴鈕領(2) Hidden Button Down Collar（2）

i.斜插足領 (Dias Stay Collar)

j.直插足領 (Straight Stay Collar)

k.直夏威夷領 (Hawaii Collar)

l.假夏威夷領 (Mock Hawaii Collar)

m.三尖耳仔搭帶領 (Inserted Point Tab Collar)

n.方形耳仔搭帶領 (Square Tab Collar)

o.中國領+假領 (Mandarin Collar or Mock Collar)

p.一片領（原身出下級） Piece Collar

註：假下級可間線，亦可不間。

註：上、下級領的間線有單、雙線之分，及領底有間線和不間線之分。

B、下級領 Neckband

a.月光下級領 (Half Moon Neckband)

b.圓嘴下級領 (Round Tip Neckband)

c.方嘴下級領 (Square Tip Neckband)

d.普通間下級 (Regular Top-stitch Band)

e.兜咀間下級 (Full Top-stitch Band)

2

領的組成及部位名稱(Parts with Name)

3

領各部位尺寸的度法(Method of Measuring Collar)

三、前幅 Body Front

1

前幅的組成及部位名稱(Parts with Names)

2

筒的款式 (Placket Type)

A.暗筒 (Concealed Placket/Invisible Placket)

B.落貼明筒 （有間單、雙線之不同）

Placket with Lining (with Single Stitch or double)

C.雙摺筒 （間邊線或暗線）

Double Fold placket ( Edge Stitch or Concealed Stitch )

註：有及骨和無及骨之分 Overlock Safety or not

D.夾筒 (Medium Placket)

E.假反明筒 (Mock Placket)

F.假反暗筒 (Mock Concealed Placket)

G.拉鈕子筒 (止口頂盡)

Button Placket without (Seam Allowance)

H.拉鈕子筒 (止口3/8")

Button Placket with 3/8" Seam Allowance

I.夾暗線筒 Placket with Concealed Stitch

J.半胸三尖明筒 Visible Half Placket with Pointed Box

K.暗線半胸筒 封三尖筒頂

Invisible Half Placket with Pointed Box

L.半胸平頂明筒 Visible Half Placket with Square Box

M.半胸雙疊筒 Lapped Half Placket

N、暗線半胸筒 封直筒頂

Invisible Half Pocket with Square Box

3

鈕子的款式 Under Placket Type

A、拉3/8"鈕子 under Placket with 3/8" Stitch （參照筒款中之 H 款做法）

B.雙摺鈕子（止口頂盡） Double Fold under Placket without Seam Allowance （參照筒款中之 G 款做法）

C.夾鈕子 Set under Placket （參照筒款中之 D 款做法）

D.筒式鈕子 Button Placket （參照筒款中之 B 款做法）

4

袋的款式 Pocket Type

A.袋的款式 Pocket Type

a、原身假反直袋口+六角袋+回針封袋角

Imitation Straight Pocket Hem + Hex-angular Pocket with Reverse Stitch

b、直袋口+縱紋圓袋 Straight Pocket Hem + Dias Round Pocket

c、原身假反三尖袋口+圓袋+間直角袋口 Imitation Pointed Pocket Hem +Round Pocket with 3 Return Recangular Stitch

d、三尖袋口+三尖袋+間斜角袋口 Pointed Pocket Hem +Pointed Pocket with 3 Return Triangular Stitch

e、單唇袋 Single Welted Pocket

f、雙唇袋 Double Welted Pocket

g、工字褶袋 Box-pleat Pocket

h、打鼓袋（反工字褶袋） Inverted Box-pleat Pocket

i、插筆袋 Pocket with Pencil Slot

B、袋蓋的款式 Pocket flaps Type

a、方袋蓋+縱紋 Square Pocket Flap+dias

b、圓袋蓋 Round Pocket Flap

c、六角袋蓋 Hex-angular Pocket Flap

d、桃形袋蓋 Pointed Center Round Corner Flap

f、弧形袋蓋 Arch Pocket Flap

g、三尖袋蓋 Pointed Pocket Flap

5

前幅各部位尺寸的度法Method of Measuring Front Body

四、後幅 Body Back

1

後幅的組成及部位名稱 Parts with Names

2

擔干款式 Yoke Type

A.擔干破中骨（駁擔干） Slipt Yoke

B.三尖擔干 Pointed Yoke

C.弧形擔干 Arch Shape Yoke

D.波浪形擔干 Wavy Yoke

3

背褶款式 Back Pleats Type

A.工字褶+耳仔（攝入1/4"，不得超出後幅)

Box Pleat With Locker Loop

B.反工字褶 Inverted Box Pleats

C.刀褶 Knife Pleats/Side pleats

4

後幅各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Body Back

五、袖 Sleeve

1

袖的組成及部位名稱 Parts with Names

2

袖的款式 Sleeve Type

A.長袖+後袖破骨（破骨袖）

Long Sleeve+Split Back Sleeve(Split Sleeve)

B.中袖+袖中開叉 Medium Sleeve+Center Sleeve Slit

C.短袖 Short Sleeve

D.無袖+拉夾圈捆條 Sleeveless+Armhole Gange

F.牛角袖 Horn Sleeve

3

袖叉款式 Sleeve Slit Type

A.假介英，袖中分叉 Mock Cuff,Sleeve Center Slit

B.原身出袖口，後袖分中開袖叉

Self Cuff Showing,Back Sleeve Center Slit

C.原身出袖叉，叉頂回針橫封 Self Slit,Top Reverse Stitch

D.拉平頂大側，加間邊線，雙線封側頂

Flat Top Sleeve Placket，with Edge Stitch，Double Needle Square Box

E.原身出細側，拉三尖大側，單線封側頂

Self Under Sleeve Placket，Set Pointer Sleeve Placket，Single Needle Pointed Box

F.R側 "R" Sleeve Placket

4

袖褶方向 Direction of Sleeve Pleats

A.折向大側 Towards Sleeve Placket

B.折向側骨 Towards Side Seam

5

袖各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Sleeve

六、介英 Cuff

1

介英的組成及部位名稱 Parts with Names

2

介英款式 Cuff Type

A.方角介英+面間1/4"單線+1/4"包朴線

Square Cuff+with 1/4" Single Stitch+Hem Cuff with 1/4"

B.圓角介英+面間邊線+1/2"包朴線

Round Cuff+with Edge Stitch+Hem Cuff with 1/2"

C.六角介英+面間1/4"雙線+雙鈕門

Hexangular Cuff+with 1/4" Double Stitch+Double Button Hole

D.大介英+繩結鈕 French Cuff +Strap Tie Button

3

介英各部位尺寸的度法 Method of Measuring Cuff

七、不同的車縫骨 Type of Seam

A.假雙埋夾_ "——平針底 Felled Sideseam -- Lockstitch

B.單針埋夾間_"——平針底 1N Sideseam with_ " Lockstitch

C.包婆仔骨 French Seam

D.雙針埋夾_" 2N Side Seam with_"

E.三線及骨 3 Thread Overlock Safety

F.四線及骨 4 Thread Overlock Safety

G.五線及骨 5 Thread Overlock Safety

H.冚蝦須線 Double Needle Coverstitch

八、一般車縫工序流程

1

楊梅部分 Sewing in YMB

A.領：Collar

上級領 Top Collar

a.(車插足領) (Stay Pocket or Stitch Stay Collar)

b.運上級領 Run Collar

c.修領尖+反燙領 Trim Collar Point+Turn Press Fall

d.燙領骨+查對 Press Fall+Inspection

e.間上級領 Topstitch Collar

f.切領腳+打中呃 Collar Edge Trimming+Center Notching

下級領 Neckband

a、包下級朴 Neckband Lining Hem

上級領f+下級領a Top Collar+Neck Band

g.落下級 Collar Band Setting

h.反燙下級+修止口 Turn Press Neck Bank + Trim Seam Allowance

i.間下級 Topstitch Neckband

j.打下級鈕門 Band Button-holing

k.釘下級鈕 Band Buttoning

l.切下級腳+點領位 Trim Neckbank+Notch Collar

B.前幅（男裝左胸單袋為例） Body Front

左前幅 Left Front Body

a.切筒貼 Trim Front Placket Facing

b.拉筒 Set Placket or Top Center

袋 Pocket

a.燙袋口 Press Pocket Hem

b.車袋口 Stitch Pocket Hem

c.焗袋 Press Pocket

左前幅b+袋c Left Front Body b + Pocket c

d.裝袋 Set Pocket

右前幅 Right Front Body

a.拉鈕子 Set Under Placket

b.車鈕子注意嘜 Set Right Front Label

d+右前幅b d + Right Front Body b

e.修領窩 Trim Neckseam

f.打鈕門 Front Button-holing

g.釘鈕 Front Buttoning

C.後幅 Body Back

a.駁擔干 Split Yoke

b.車主嘜 Stitch Main Label

c.打後幅褶+落耳仔 Back Pleats + Locker Loop

d.落擔干 Set Yoke

e.燙修擔干 Press and Trim Yoke

D.袖 Sleeve

a.拉細側 Set Sleeve Placket

b.夾大側+封三尖 Set Slip to Slip + Finish Sleeve Placket

c.打袖側鈕門 Sleeve Placket Button-holing

d.釘鈕 Sleeve Placket Buttoning

E.介英 Cuff

a.包介英朴 Set Interlining to Cuff

b.運介英 Run Cuff

c.反介英 Turn Cuff

d.間介英 Topstitch Cuff

e.打介英鈕門 Cuff Button-holing

f.釘介英鈕 Cuff Buttoning

2

香港部分 Sewing in Hongkong

A.納膊 Join Shoulder

B.上袖 Set Sleeve

C.埋夾 Close Side or Close Side Seam

D.上領 Set Collar

F.上介英 Set Cuff

——————The End——————

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