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和田,大地之乳

民豐縣天氣預報:29日夜間至30日白天民豐縣天氣為多雲有揚沙,氣溫7~23℃,風力4-5級轉3~4級。民豐縣氣象局2018年3月29日

文字丨『誰最中國』

圖片丨來自網路

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和田——大地之乳

中國960萬平方公里的土地,新疆佔了六分之一,驕傲地擁有了中國版圖上的整個大西北。

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而在西北邊陲地,新疆往南移,鑲嵌著大大小小298塊綠洲。綠洲之上,生活著曾經絲綢之路南道上的重鎮、光彩奪目的絹都——和田。

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和田是綠洲中央的項墜兒。它南枕崑崙,北卧大漠,一半神山玉立,一半妖嬈盆地。古往今來,各國文化在這裡衝撞、交流,被有些學者稱為西域的「東方明珠」。

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2200多歲的和田古稱「于闐」,梵文名「瞿薩旦那」,意為「大地的乳房」。

她像大地之母一樣,用自己甘甜的乳汁餵養了這片土地上的生靈。綠洲、果園、農舍悄悄蓬勃,人們的信念變得圓滿單純,土地上空的文明得以生生不息。

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相傳曾經的于闐王在嬰兒時期不吸人乳,而食乳房狀的山地之乳。因受天地恩賜,崑崙成為他的父親,他便為大地驕子。

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荒誕有趣的千年傳說,讓上古神山之崑崙更賦一層神秘色彩。和田依靠自然地勢,把河流、沙漠、綠洲、果園融合得恰到好處。在這裡,大地是飽滿的。·····················································

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河流之下有美玉。

于闐國土遼闊,「西南抵蔥嶺與婆羅門接,相去三千里。南接吐蕃,西至疏勒二千餘里」。20多萬平方公里的土地上,玉石只是天山一角。

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聞名於世的和田玉,藏在塔克拉瑪干沙漠之下,深埋玉龍喀什河兩岸。無數人垂涎美玉之色,為之傾倒。因傳玉與女人有共通之性,故當地有赤女采玉的風俗,即在月光之下,女人赤身裸體下水采玉。月光、河水、玉石被女人賦予靈性,生命似乎變得感性起來,相同物質之間互相依附、互相依偎。·······································································································

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沙漠之中有新綠。

新疆有條「死亡之海」名叫塔克拉瑪干沙漠。在極長的時間裡,沙漠只是沙漠,可漸漸的,大批大批濃翠的綠色開始湧現。有了新綠,人類就留下了可以瞬間到達的足跡,於是火車、飛機開始在黃沙與綠洲之間馳騁,沙漠之上的雲朵也被綠意浸染。

黃得嚴實,綠得通透,沒有什麼地方比塔克拉瑪干沙漠與和墨洛綠洲更讓人明白生命與荒蕪的界限了。

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天空之下有愛戀。

人們打趣說「和田這個地方啊,春風一吹進去就變成秋風了」。緊挨天邊的和田,似乎得到了大地之母的偏愛,不然怎麼會安排胡楊林與沙漠相守千年?這裡的風沙大啊,可是再大也阻擋不住果園裡的肥碩,妨礙不了勞動者臉上的笑容。人與自然相愛一場,那豐碩的果實就是愛的結晶。·····················································

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中華大地被日月普及,南疆一隅被光芒普照,人間最初的煙火味道自此地開始。在這裡,信念是圓滿的。

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哪裡熱鬧,哪裡就有巴扎。

「新疆的巴扎不是與生俱來的,它幾乎是民間百姓的即興之作。」對他們來說,不逛巴扎不算維吾爾族人,不懂巴扎不算維吾爾族人。騎驢趕馬,席地而坐,賣力吆喝,以物易物。生活在這片古老土地上的人們,幾乎沒有什麼憂愁的事,如果有,逛一逛巴扎,就都好了。

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維吾爾族人民對土地有著不可言說的敬畏。

大漠深處,黃土漫天,揀幾支胡楊林枝子,生火發熱,從沙土灰里燒出來的「庫乃其」才能慰人脾胃。饢從坑裡出,坑為土製成。那像古堡似的饢坑是土地最樸實的味道,是自然最乾淨的軀殼。

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昆崙山下的子民們有著最單純的信念。

喝著冰川水,食在綠洲上。在他們眼裡,大地就是吐露智慧的平台。炭火里埋羊、地毯上種花......粗糙的雙手訴說骨子裡的勤勞。他們面朝黃土背朝天,一輩子安安靜靜地,用自己的倔強和固執,堅守屬於自己的民族特性。

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哪裡有和田女人,哪裡就有美麗。

沙漠里有一種黑色漿果,和田女人把它用原始的方式搗碎,將果汁塗在絲綢之上,將大地的顏色穿在身上。她們能歌善舞,自娛自樂,把自己的獨有特質盡情舒展。生活可能稍稍有些苦,但心裡的感覺總歸是甜的。·····················································

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大地的豐滿得益於自然造物,文明的盈滿歸結於人類智慧。和田這片土地上,人類的智慧發揮得恰到好處。在這裡,文明是盈滿的。

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有絲綢,更有美玉。

世人只知千年古國沾了絲路之光,和田因此成為光彩奪目的南道重鎮,卻鮮有人知在這約2000年前,玉石之路已經開通。作為絲綢之路的前身,這條浩浩蕩蕩的大道雖資歷深厚卻一直沉默著、低調著。

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尼雅遺址中的漢晉風華。

遺址是繁華後的蒼涼,也是輝煌過的榮耀。沒有人知道,在如今這片荒涼之上,卻曾有過一個令人神往的古國——精絕國。

《漢書·西域傳》:「精絕國,王治精絕城,去長安八千八百二十里,戶四百八十,口三千三百六十,勝兵五百人。精絕都尉、左右將,驛長各一個。北至都護治所二千七百二十三里,南至戍廬國四日,行地空,西通扜彌四百六十里」。

繁盛的精絕國如夢幻般突然消失,好似從未存在過。而沙漠的駝鈴聲卻在提醒著,黃沙之下,曾經漢晉的風華。遺存千年的古建築和斷壁殘垣歷經風霜,依舊傲然挺立。

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千里沃土曾孕育千年佛國。

「萬方樂奏有于闐。」1000多年前,佛教在此地盛開,開啟了人類思索人生的大智慧。橫亘中西與印度的于闐,成為東方佛教中心。一介彈丸小國的于闐,就是人們當時誠心想要到達的西天。眼前山高水遠,腳下偏僻寂寞,于闐國里卻佛寺林立、僧尼眾多。冰雪崑崙之下,千里沃土之上,充斥著人們的虔誠和靈心。

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和田

一個新疆「口袋底」的邊緣地區

1000年夏荷盛開

1000年冬蛇沉眠

她有尼雅遺址的古老

也有東方女性的年輕

他有崑崙喬峰般的豪氣

也有美玉女俠般的溫婉

她是正在崛起的沙漠明珠

讓千年佛國不再神秘

天山之下,轉眼之間

和田

又回到了大地之母的懷抱中

又回到了年輕稚嫩的襁褓中

一朝蟄伏

只待重生

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