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縱貫美洲大陸,單車帳篷的旅行-94

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal

11/11 參團Sumierto峽谷

11/12 參觀馬雅草藥博物館,no bolms博物館等

位於海拔約2100公尺的San Cristobal是標準的旅遊城市,也擁有最標準的『洋蔥式結構』,位於歷史中心十字狀的步行街充滿了小販,咖啡館,餐廳,與街頭藝人。可惜吉他神手對面的餐廳是我吃過最糟的食物。和紀念品店(這個城市以琥珀與玉石出門),平價旅館也在這裡,再來是中產階級住宅區與高階旅館,最外圈與山坡上的密集建築是貧民窟與天然垃圾掩埋場。這裡的山坡不是陽明山,在道路品質未改善前,我不覺得有錢人會跑到那裡住。

這是我第二次參加墨西哥的散客拼團。墨西哥高度競爭與發展的旅遊業讓這些行程價格可接受。上次在Oaxaca的團時間10-19點,塞了5個景點,價格僅350pesos,約21美金,不含所有門票。這次往Sumierto峽谷僅半天時間,費用220pesos,約14美金,含接駁與近3小時的乘船旅程。但是被推崇的Sumierto峽谷對我沒有太多驚奇。它的景緻類似太魯閣的天祥上游路段:深邃但是有植被的峽谷,差別僅在於生態。除外,對我來說美國國家公園的美景也大勝於此。

一次旅行參觀3座金字塔讓人驚嘆,但是30座金字塔會產生嚴重的樂趣遞減。但是之後我還有機會重遊此地嗎?接下來的旅程我不採取直接路徑往瓜地馬拉,騎單車頂多3天時間,而是繞道『馬雅公路』。但是馬雅文明建於叢林而非高原上,所以我得進入濕熱的熱帶雨林。除了一些著名景點,我慎重考慮是否走位於瓜地馬拉的5-6日『馬雅古道』,參觀遙遠的El Mirador遺址。

11/10 Tuxtla--San Cristobal

11/11 visit Sumierto canyon

11/12 visit museums in the city

San Cristobal, locates in a valley of 2100 meters above sea level, is a standard tourists city, and has the 「onion structure of the residential area」. The cross pedestrian streets in historic center are stuffed with restaurants, coffee shop, vendors, street artist, and souvenir store(this city is famous for the amber and the jade). This area is also the budget hotels located. I still enjoyed the live music performance there but the restaurant opposite of the best band in town was the most lousy food I ever had. Then residential area for the mid-class and some fancy hotel around the city center. Further on the slope is the dense houses of the people having lower incomes.

I took a tour to Sumierto canyon from the city. The highly competition and development of tourism industry in Mexico makes the price of tour affordable and has quality. The tour I anticipated in Oaxaca took me to 5 sights in only 9 hours, which was quite compact and even exhausting, but it only costed me 350 pesos(21 USD) for arranging this, all the entrance fees excluded. The Sumierto canyon tour, 220 pesos or about 14 USD, is half-day schedule, with almost 3 hours of boat trip in Sumierto canyon.

It was a worthy trip, but the canyon tour weren"t amazing to me. I saw similar scenery in Taiwan, and more astonishing landscape in USA. Although the ecological system there were still interesting. I am overwhelming to the wonders on the way. 3 pyramids in one journey is quite enough, and to visit 30 pyramids in one journey is too much for me. But will I have a chance to revisit? Or it"s better to visit all the sights in this trip. Beyond San Cristobal, Guatemala is just 3 days away by bicycle, but I will take the Mayan route in a more humid and hotter jungle instead of cycling straightforward. And I am thinking about a 5 or 6 days hiking tour in north Guatemala jungle to El Mirador site.

Sumierto峽谷

Sumierto峽谷的鱷魚

Sumierto峽谷的旅遊船隻

Sumierto峽谷的招牌瀑布景觀

博物館的小販,身著傳統服飾,照相要20pesos,城市所有的小販都要求相同的價碼,除了翻譯姓名成日文的日本人

城市歷史中心,與住宅屋頂的磚瓦結構

城市歷史中心

賣水車,像賣麵包車般沿路廣播叫賣

市集水果攤

夜間的街頭藝人,這組是彈的最好聽的,可惜對面的餐廳的食物不及格

一般住宅區,與山坡上的密集建築

一般住宅區

一般住宅區


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