Change a Way to Taste the City│靜心、品茶、食素，大隱隱於城的文殊院

最新 04-18

GoChengdu小編帶你體味繁華市區的安靜。

三柱香、一盞茶、一齋飯，

在成都文殊院晃晃悠悠呆上一天，

雖不能讓人對人生大徹大悟，

但也能讓平時浮躁的心性安定些許。

Probably the most popular monastery in downtown Chengdu, Wenshu (Manjusri) Monastery keeps most of the historical vestiges ― the temples, cloisters, walls, columns and roof tiles ― to tell its story quietly in the busy, boisterous whereabouts in the city.

成都文殊院，

一座位於繁華都市中的千年古寺。

趁著春光明媚，去那裡走一走，

穿越悠悠歲月，暫時脫離塵世的喧囂和浮華，

體會嵌入這座城市紋理深處的歷史與文化。

Here is some advice for visiting the old temple in the downtown.

深藏歷史的古寺

History of and Buildings in Wenshu Monastery

成都文殊院的歷史，最早可追溯到南北朝時期的南朝。隋唐時期，該寺廟已成為成都的著名佛教寺院，後來經過康熙年間的重建和嘉慶同治年間的再次擴建，成就了今天的規模。

The history of Wenshu Monastery dates back to the Southern and Northern Dynasties (420-589) and the monastery prospered in the Sui and Tang Periods (581-907). The reconstructions in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) made the monastery the largest and most famous Buddhist temple in the city center.

一句簡單的介紹：

它是成都主城區最大、最有名望的一個佛教寺廟。

體現這座川西名寺的恢宏歷史的，首先就是它的建築。整個寺院坐北朝南，寺內中軸線上依次分布著天王殿、觀音殿、大雄寶殿、說法堂、藏經樓等五重殿宇，兩廡配以鐘鼓樓、禪堂、觀堂、客堂、齋堂、戒堂、念佛堂及各職事寮房，形成的四合結構，乃典型川西平原古建風格，全木質建築，整體氣勢恢宏、巍峨壯觀。

Stepping into the temple, you will be impressed by the grand and elegant halls featuring the typical characteristics of traditional buildings in western Sichuan.

值得一提的是，文殊院幾個大殿前面的柱頭全部都用完整的石頭做成，中間沒有接縫，一共82根。當年由於石料太大太重，工人們在冬天往地上潑水，等結冰後把石柱拉進來。古人們真可謂智慧機巧。

The 82 columns of the halls are made of huge stones ― so big are the structures, it is said, that people had to sprinkle water on the ground and get it frozen and hence more slippery for easier transportation of the stones to the construction site.

徜徉於古色古香的寺院，小編髮現這裡還有一個非常不錯的圖書館——空林佛教圖書館。雖然館裡的藏品以佛教經籍為主，但也兼及文史哲書刊，而且對外開放。遊客只需登記一下身份證，就可以進入免費借閱。圖書館並不大，卻勝在環境清幽、人比較少。想找個安靜的環境看看書的朋友，這裡是一個不錯的選擇。

A small library hides itself in the Buddhist monastery where there are quite many books on Buddhism, providing a quiet environment for people interested in Buddhism to read.

寺廟內外的市井生活

The Monastery and Local People

多數人來文殊院，自然是燒香拜佛祈願。

每隔一段時間，文殊院都會舉行一些盛大的活動，比如3月23日的觀音聖誕供燈祈福法會、4月5日的清明思親追薦法會，以及不定期舉辦的禪修體驗營等。

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Many of the local residents are attracted by various activities regularly held inside the monastery, among which are the Bell Tolling Ceremony on the eve of the Chinese New Year"s Day, the Laba Donation in winter, and sutra chanting sessions and so on.

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當然，有成都人的地方，就有茶館。文殊院裡面有個壩壩茶館，竹製的桌椅擺滿整個院子，上的也是成都人最愛的蓋碗茶，極好地展示了成都當地的茶文化。

除了接地氣的壩壩茶，旁邊的長廊里還有環境更為清幽雅緻的室內茶舍以及咖啡館。什麼時候逛累了坐下來上一杯，看著陽光灑在周圍的綠樹上，人立刻感覺心安愜意！

If you want to know more about local lifestyles, don"t miss the outdoor tea house at the monastery. Sitting on the comfortable wooden chair while enjoying the warm sunshine in the tea houses is quite a different experience.

這裡還有關於成都人喝蓋碗茶的圖文講解，非常有意思！

成都到處都藏著好吃的，而文殊院里的餐飲代表當屬香園啦。

愛吃素餐的朋友，千萬別錯過。

香園的一樓是自助餐，35元一位，各種素菜不一而足，粗糧水果樣樣齊全；

二樓是點餐區，各種素菜是出了名的好，是成都很有名的素餐廳，菜品豐富，味道酸、辣、甜、香應有盡有，體現了川菜「百菜百味」的精髓。

Also there is a vegan restaurant at the monastery. It, called Xiangyuan (Garden of Fragrance), offers a wide range of vegetarian dishes.

素菜做成這樣，覺得自己平時吃的蔬菜只能叫做「草」。

名叫「老媽回憶」的經典川菜回鍋肉，強推、必推！把肥肉的紋理都仿製出來了，簡直讓人嘆為觀止！感覺就是在吃肉。

Double-cooked Pork : Imagine "double-cooked pork" made from beans!

說起這裡的美食，怎麼能少了文殊院大門口的洞子口張涼粉！

涼粉是四川的一種大眾化食品，因其製作方便、價廉物美，再加上豐富的調料，成了極受歡迎的小吃。這個店有幾十年歷史了，絕對正宗的老字號市井小店，附近的大爺大媽十年如一日地排隊購買。這裡的價格非常感人，單價都在5-7元/碗。和朋友一起來，白涼粉、豌豆涼粉、甜水麵每樣來上一碗，巴適！

On the opposite side of the street, at the front door of the monastery there is a restaurant Called Zhang Lao"er Liangfen (Liangfen is a kind of jelly make of beans), which offers Liangfen, noodles and other snacks very popular for their rich flavors and favorable price.

走的時候，不能忘了去逛逛附近的宮廷糕點鋪和聞酥園。

說起成都人最愛吃的點心，大多數人給出的答案都是這兩家。便宜、分量足，而且大部分點心都不會過甜，當然成就吸納了一大批忠實「粉絲」。不管什麼時候，總能看到烏泱泱的長隊。兩家的各色糕點各有千秋，這麼多年也沒分出個絕對的勝負，很多時候都看個人偏好。

And you can always see long queues in front of the two pastry shops next to the monastery, the Royal Bakery (宮廷糕點) and Butter Sweet (聞酥園).

最後當然得去逛逛文殊坊。

成都文殊坊是一條「非物質文化遺產——手工技藝主題街」。街道兩邊是青瓦灰磚、園林盆景和充滿地域特色的川西民居和四合小院。熙熙攘攘的主題街上，鑲著黃邊的棉布招牌迎風招展；蜀錦、蜀綉、漆器、瓷胎竹編、銀花絲體驗館，承載著厚重的歷史，裝飾著特色鮮明的主題街區……

Another attraction in the neighborhood is Wenshu Fun, a theme street lined with a larger number of shops, and workshops selling products of intangible cultural heritage, such as Shu Embroidery and Shu Brocade.