愛豆說 COFFEE ENCOUNTERS 7

這周，我們來到了高定珠寶設計師何超球的工作室，一窺珠寶設計師的設計日常。

This week, we visited jewelry designer Chaoqiu at her studio to talk coffee and browse through her gorgeous high-end designs.

她的工作室位於淮海路上一處靜謐的歷史保護小區，是一座經典的上海老式洋房。一開大門就是漂亮的院子，日常鳥語花香。採訪間她提到，因為本身房屋的結構關係，所以花了長達一年半的時間，才把這裡精心打造成了自己喜歡的風格。平時，這裡就是她的會客間和設計室。

Located in a historical compound on Huaihai Road, Chaoqiu』s studio overlooks a peaceful garden. Shielded from the din of the surrounding streets, it』s an oasis where French-influenced interior design is accented with a number of items from Chaoqiu』s personal art collection. She spends most of her days in the studio, designing new pieces and meeting with clients.

說起為什麼會成為一名高定珠寶設計師，超球告訴我們，她的父親從事玉石生意，自己從小跟石頭一起長大，成為珠寶設計師是自然而然的一件事。「我從小就對當代藝術有著濃厚的興趣，喜歡參觀各種各樣的藝術展，現在自己也收藏了不少喜歡的作品。看多了，就想自己去創造，而設計珠寶就像是在設計一個 Mini 雕塑，可以滿足我動手創造的慾望。」

The decision to become a high-end jewelry designer came naturally to Chaoqiu, coming from an affluent family, well established in jade trading and art collecting. Her family』s deep roots in the field allowed her access to fine gemstones from a young age. 「I discovered my passion for fine art when I was very young, I love going to art exhibitions, and started to collect art pieces a while ago. At a certain point, I want to create my own art. Designing jewelry is similar to sculpting. It is a perfect way for me to explore and practice my own artistic passion.」

2014年拿到 GIA 珠寶設計學位後，超球決定從紐約搬回到故鄉上海，並創辦自己的珠寶品牌 QIU Fine Jewelry. 「我覺得上海現在整個發展氛圍很好，非常國際化，而我在中國的客人對珠寶本身就有非常深厚的了解，知道自己要什麼，同時又很開放，期待我能提供非常不一樣的設計。這既是一種機遇，又是非常大的挑戰。」

After receiving her diploma from the Gemological Institute of America, Chaoqiu returned to her hometown Shanghai and founded QIU Fine Jewelry. Ever since, she』s focused her appreciation of art, fashion, and nature to her artistic creations and fine jewelry. 「It』s the best moment to develop my career here in Shanghai; it has the international vibe and is home to many potential local clients who understand the jewelry business well and know what they are looking for. They have very high expectations which is exciting and challenging at the same time.」

她的每一件設計都需要日以月計的工作量，耗時最久的一件作品據說長達一年半的時間。從選擇最最頂尖的寶石原料，到跟客戶反覆溝通設計的概念和細節，再到原料的設計和切割，所有的環節都關乎細節。「花時間進去，出來的作品才會經得起時間的考驗。」

Chaoqiu works with one-of-a-kind gemstones, creating timeless bespoke pieces that are time-intensive in their creation. From working out the design concept with the client to the waxing and cutting process, each detail is overseen by Chaoqiu. 「Every detail needs your full attention if you』re going to create something that stand the test of time. It has to be perfect!」

See more on Chaoqiu"s Instgram: qiuqiu_he

這件作品是 QIU Fine Jewelry 2018 最新的設計之一，是超球個人最愛的作品。靈感來源於上海國際飯店30年代的建築風格，是建築與設計的完美融合，也是對故鄉上海的回饋。

「我的很多客人都是老客人介紹的，他們知道在我這裡會找到最頂尖的綠寶石，我只用最頂尖的原料。每一個作品都是孤品，同樣的設計我不會做第二遍。我希望客人在拿到最終設計的時候可以覺得眼前一亮。」

This is a piece from QIU Fine Jewelry』s newest 2018 collection. Art Deco inspired Colombian Trapiche Emerald bracelet. Inspiration for the design comes from the Park Hotel, a relic from 1920s colonial era Shanghai. This piece is a love letter to her hometown.

「I get most of my clients through word of mouth. They know I only work with unique jewelry that contains a wealth of details and textures using exquisite precious stones. Each piece is the only piece like it on earth, I will never do the same design twice; I want to present my clients with something different, something really breathtaking.」

為了找到最好的原材料，超球每年都會在哥倫比亞待上至少一到兩個月的時間，去到當地最有名的祖母綠礦區，與寶石工匠們深入溝通和交流，確保每個自己腦海中的設計都能找到最合適的原料。和上海不同，在這裡超球不僅可以找到想要的綠寶石，還可以在這裡怡人的自然風光中沉澱下來，吸收更多靈感和能量。

To find the best emeralds in the world, Chaoqiu visits Columbia a few times every year, visiting emerald mines and meeting jadeite artisans to make sure every design gets the exact right stone. The region』s stunning natural beauty also gives her the chance to relax, reflect and find incredible energy and inspiration.

「哥倫比亞不僅是著名的綠寶石出產國,也是咖啡的大國。從某種程度上來說，珠寶設計和精品咖啡都是工匠精神的最好體現，都需要投入大量的時間和精力去鑽研，這樣才能把材料本身的精髓發揮到極致。」

「Columbia is not only home of the best emeralds in the world but also the best coffee in the world. To some point, both jewelry design and specialty coffee carry the spirit of craftsmanship. You have to dive in and spend time to get the best out of the material.」

Chaoqiu at La Trinidad, the oldest coffee farm in Columbia

超球是一個離不開咖啡的人，在哥倫比亞的時候她有時間就會去當地農場尋覓新鮮的咖啡豆，甚至還在當地學習了關於咖啡的課程，而 FACT.COFFEE 和她也非常有緣，我們的烘焙大師 Jamie 是她早年在哥倫比亞認識的朋友，她曾經光顧過 Jamie 在波哥大的烘焙工廠 Catacion Publica，那也是她一開始接觸 FACT.COFFEE 的地方。對於咖啡的喜好，她喜歡平衡的口感。而這也是為什麼她很愛 F.02 瑰夏的原因。

Chaoqiu is a passionate lover of coffee. When time allows and she is in Columbia, she gathers friends at a local coffee farm to try out fresh coffee beans, or take part in coffee workshops and tastings. Our friendship with Chaoqiu started from our Roast master Jamie .She visited Jamine"s roastery Catacion Publica in Bogota where she learned about FACT.COFFEE . Geisha is her favorite kind of coffee due to its perfect balance; not too bitter, not too sour. For her, F.02 LA RIVERA GEISHA brings up many fond memories of Columbia.

Chaoqiu』s studio balcony is full of Columbia style decorative touches, gathered from her travels

「咖啡對於我來說象徵著新的一天的開始」 ，超球每天醒來第一件事就是自己做手沖，不加糖不加奶，讓醇厚平衡的果香喚醒自己。然後慢慢進入創作狀態，這個過程是她每天最享受的時光之一。

「Coffee for me is the beginning of a brand new day!」 Every morning, a self-made drip coffee is a must for Chaoqiu. No sugar, no milk. just the rich, fruity flavor of the coffee as it slowly wakes her up. It』s her favourite way to start a productive day.

超球把珠寶設計當作藝術品去做，自2014年成立品牌至今，她每年會推出一個系列，作品受到了全球業內外人士的大加讚賞，也時常被邀請參加一些藝術博覽會。目前她正在為5月17日「藝覽北京博覽會」做最後籌備。展出的作品，都是她的心頭好，其中有四件作品是從已經購買的客戶中借回展出的，在北京的朋友，不妨零距離去欣賞一下超球的珠寶設計。

Chaoqiu treats each of her designs as a work of art. Since 2014, her remarkable design work enabled her to be widely recognized by some of the most influential jewelry and design media houses in the world. These days she is preparing for her next exhibition in Beijing』s JINGART on May 17 that includes a number of her current designs as well as 4 pieces borrowed from clients』 collections. If you』re in Beijing, be sure to see the latest pieces from the forefront of modern jewelry design.

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