2018男士丹寧的主要趨勢

原標題：2018男士丹寧的主要趨勢

01

牛仔疊穿

Double Denim

Double denim isn』t the easiest trend to pull off – and when it goes wrong, boy does it go wrong – but get it right and you』re looking at a massive pay off. It』s the menswear equivalent of a handstand press-ups or beef Wellington; only the pros can do it.

牛仔疊穿不是很容易掌握的趨勢——穿的不對，就會看起來很土——但是穿對了，你就會看起來非常棒。它對於穿搭者的穿著品味要求比較高，只有專業的人才能正確地穿搭。

「If there』s ever a time to go all out with denim, it』s now,」 says Farfetch menswear editor Tony Cook. 「Tackle the tricky trend by matching a blue denim jacket with dark, straight-cut jeans for a sophisticated approach, or contrast black skinny jeans with a blue denim shirt for a more casual take.」

「如果說哪一段時間穿牛仔最合適，那就是現在。」Farfetch男裝編輯Tony Cook說，「處理這個棘手的流行趨勢，黑色的直筒牛仔褲搭配藍色牛仔夾克是一種富有經驗的方法，而相對的以一件藍色牛仔襯衫搭一條黑色緊身牛仔褲則是一種更休閑的穿法。」

The majority of your efforts should be focused on ensuring both denims are visibly different. Similarly, if wearing two blue washes, break things up with a white tee or grey sweatshirt – for perhaps the first time in menswear history, a blue knit or T-shirt isn』t the safe option here.

你主要的努力應該是集中在確保牛仔服明顯不同上面。相應的，如果你穿了兩件藍色的衣服，就可以用白色或灰色T恤來打破沉悶。這在男裝史上也許是第一次，藍色針織衫或T恤不是安全的選擇。

02

90年代牛仔

Nineties Denim

「Classic grey wash jeans are back across arange of fits,」 says Topman buying director Rachel Morgans, who recently oversaw a relaunch of the retailer』s denim range. 「The wash lends these designs an authentic, vintage feel.」

「經典的灰色水洗牛仔重新回到了合身的範圍。」Topman的採購總監Rachel Morgans說，他最近負責重新推出零售商的牛仔系列。「水洗給這些設計品增添了一種真實，復古的感覺。」

The hallmark of this denim trend is a looser fit and a pale finish, so you need to think about the cut and colour of the kit that sits alongside your throwback threads. What this means in practice is that nineties denim jeans feel most at home with colour-block staples like sweat shirts and hoodies, with dark shoes thrown in to add a little visual weight to your bottom half.

這類牛仔趨勢的特點是寬鬆的搭配和淡色的效果，所以你需要考慮的是復古套裝的剪裁和顏色。實際上這意味著90年代的牛仔褲搭上像運動服和衛衣這樣的拼色主題的服裝感覺最好，再穿上一雙深色的鞋子可以增加你下半身的視覺重量。

03

白色牛仔

White Denim

「White denim is something men tend to stay away from because they can』t imagine how it would fit in their wardrobe,」 says stylist Nas Abraham, who has worked with the likes of Barbour and Gap. 「In fact, it goes surprisingly well with other pieces.」

「白色牛仔是男人想要遠離的東西，因為他們無法想像怎麼將它融入自己的衣櫥。」曾與Barbour and Gap這樣的人合作過的造型師Nas Abraham說，「事實上，白色牛仔和其他衣服搭配效果出奇的好。」

04

卷腳牛仔

Denim With Turn-Ups

「By turning up the hem of your jeans, you add a completely different shape to your overall look,」 says Abraham. 「Because the hem of most jeans never usually sits perfectly above your ankle, a turn-up stops them bunching up above the shoe and exposes a bit of ankle, giving more of a tapered look.」 So turn-ups aren』t just an exercise in adding interest to a look, they』ll stop cankles in their tracks, too.

「把你的牛仔褲的下擺翻過來，能給你的整體造型增添完全不同的效果。」 Abraham說，「因為絕大多數的牛仔褲的下擺通常都不能完美的置於你的腳踝之上，所以把它們卷至鞋子之上並露出一點腳踝，從而讓下擺看上去更像一個錐形。」因此捲起褲腳不僅僅是為了增加外觀上的趣味性的一種運用，也是為了露出腳踝。

Turn-ups work best on rigid denim that will more easily retain folds. Try it with a pair of indigo selvedge jeans before finishing with rugged worker or Chelsea boots while it』s still cold, then sneakers when your ankles can handle the breeze.

將褲腳捲起一整塊最好是選擇比較硬的牛仔褲，這樣更容易保持摺痕。你可以用一條靛藍色的包邊牛仔褲來試試，當天氣寒冷時可以搭配一雙結實的工作靴或者切爾西靴，天氣微涼時可以搭配一雙運動鞋。

05

老爹牛仔

Dad Denim

Unsurprisingly, a lot can go wrong with this trend. Think of that loose, slightly faded pair your old man wears when he』s cutting the hedges and you』re on the right track; think Simon Cowell and you』ve gone one step too far. Rewind immediately.

不出所料，這一趨勢可能會出現很多問題。如果你想到的是你家老人穿著一條鬆鬆垮垮的、略微褪色的牛仔褲修剪樹籬的情景，那麼你的思維走在了正確的軌道上；如果你想到的是Simon Cowell，那麼太遠了，立即倒帶回來吧。

「There surgence of dad denim is one that』s been championed by high-end designers –it』s all about an unfussy, unpretentious look, even if the price tag suggest so therwise,」 says Reiss brand stylist Paul Higgins. Fortunately, the high street has also muscled in with affordable styles, so you don』t have to drop a mint to look intentionally normal.

Reiss 品牌設計師Paul Higgins 說：「老爹牛仔的復興受到了高端設計師的推崇——它有著樸實、低調的外觀，雖然價格並非如此。」幸運的是，商業街上已經強力推出了價格適中的款式，所以你不必為了追趕潮流而花許多錢。

It』s a denim shade that works particularly well with normcore stablemates like boxy overshirtsand colour block tees. In short: if it looks relaxed and basic, you』re doing dad denim right.

老爹牛仔比較好搭，尤其搭配寬鬆版襯衫、拼色T恤等簡約風的服裝。簡單的來說：如果老爹牛仔被穿得很休閑和基礎，那麼你就穿對了。

06

破壞牛仔

Distressed Denim

「This season』s distressed denim comes in all forms of ripped, bleached and rawedging,」 says Hayley Bushell from the River Island Style Studio. That』s not your cue to try out every type at once, mind.

River Island Style Studio 的Hayley Bushell 說：「這季的破壞牛仔將以撕裂，漂白，毛邊等各種形式呈現。」注意，這並不是暗示你要立刻嘗試各種類型。

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