領略BVLGARI寶格麗腕錶設計的奇幻之旅

原標題：領略BVLGARI寶格麗腕錶設計的奇幻之旅

——環球網時尚頻道獨家視頻專訪BVLGARI寶格麗全球運營高級經理Pascal Brandt

環球網時尚頻道獨家視頻專訪BVLGARI寶格麗全球運營高級經理Pascal Brandt

1. You have worked in Chaux-des-Fonds, Neuchatel, and Geneva, all of which are famous for watch-making. Did you commit to the watch industry when you were studying French literature?您所在城市拉紹德封,納沙泰爾,日內瓦都是著名的腕錶產區，是在讀法國文學的時候就已經決定將來致力於腕錶行業嗎？

I was born in La Chaud-de-Fonds, I was raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, then I studied in Neuchatel close to my hometown, French Literature. But, it is said in La Chaux-de-Fonds in every house you have one watchmaker, so I lived with this since I was a child. My late-father was working in this industry, my grandfather was a watchmaker so I』ve been nurtured with watches and stories and history since I was a child and I always loved watches. The reason why, I went to work in this industry as a journalist first and I』ve been freelance for 10 years based in La Chaud-de-Fonds and then I crossed to join Officine Panerai in Milan, then Vacheron Constantin in Geneva, and then Bulgari since 9 years now.

我出生在瑞士拉紹德封(La Chaux-de-Fonds)，並在那裡長大。之後我前往家鄉附近的納沙泰爾(Neuchatel)求學，學習法國文學。當時有一個非常流行的說法是，拉紹德封的每個家庭都會出一名鐘錶匠。自童年時代起，我便與鐘錶結下了不解之緣：先父曾在鐘錶界打拚多年，而我祖父本人就是一名專業的鐘錶匠。可以這麼說，我從童年時代起便深受腕錶、腕錶故事及其深厚文化歷史的熏陶，一直以來對腕錶情有獨鍾。最初，我以記者的身份涉足腕錶行業，並在拉紹德封歷經長達10年的自由撰稿時光。在那之後，我遠赴義大利米蘭，加入沛納海(Officine Panerai)，之後又前往瑞士日內瓦任職江詩丹頓(Vacheron Constantin)。再後來，也就是9年前，我與義大利珠寶世家BVLGARI寶格麗結緣，為品牌服務至今。

2. We know you had been a senior reporter before joining BVLGARI, what are your views on the promotion of brand culture? What counts as an effective promotion?我們知道在加入寶格麗之前您是一位資深記者，您是如何看待傳播對於品牌文化的發酵，什麼是有效的傳播?

It』s an easy and difficult question. I would say it』s a difficult and easy answer. To promote a brand today requires first of all, it』s a key word for me, passion. You need to be passionate with those objects, which are so named or called watches, if you don』t have passion you can』t fight or promote your brand, your products. Me personally that』s my nature, I』m very passionate with watches, for me it』s always emotional to have a watch in your hands, I』m a guy, I』m a man of course men』s watches, but not only, when at Bulgari I touch a Serpenti high jewellery instantly I feel emotion because I love the products, I love what is behind the scenes, it』s a lot of work, it』s a lot of commitments, often we do not think about that, but such an object is the result of hundreds of hours of hard work craftsmanship, with a lot of people involved, we never see them, we see the product. I think always to the craftsman and craftswomen who work on such objects.

這個問題看似簡單，實則很難，答案亦是如此。當今時代，品牌推廣的第一要素是激情，這也是我工作的一大重點。只有對目標，也就是我們的腕錶產品充滿激情，你才會願意為品牌和產品的推廣付出努力。否則，一切都是枉然。於我而言，這種激情是與生俱來的，我對腕錶情有獨鍾，佩戴腕錶總能激發我很多思緒：作為一名男士，我鍾愛男士腕錶。不過，當我第一次接觸到寶格麗Serpenti高級珠寶腕錶時，還是瞬間被腕錶所蘊含的深厚情感所感染到。這與我個人對這一系列的喜愛不無關係：它是工藝技藝的凝聚，是無數心血的結晶。雖然我們不常體會到這一點，但正是無數鐘錶匠人夜以繼日的辛勤工作與精心雕琢，才成就了如此雍容華美的腕錶。我與這些匠人素未謀面，但卻時常會在腦海里浮現出他們兢兢業業、精心打造精美腕錶的場景。

3. You have spent much of your personal career promoting the watch industry, so is there something that has left a deep impression on you, or to be specific, did you experience something inspirational in the process?從您的個人經歷來看，非常專註於腕錶行業的傳播，這期間有什麼印象深刻，特別是對您有啟發的事件嗎？

Very difficult question, very difficult answer. But I』m back to the key words, first of all passion, if you don』t have that and anyone I know in this industry, once you join this business the watch industry, whatever you do, I mean working in a company or as a watch journalist as well you stick with that industry. Impossible to change, because it』s a very emotional world, it』s a very organic industry as well. It』s not like, working in a bank or in finance or you play with figures on an excel spreadsheet all day long, it』s very virtual all that. Watches are not virtual, it』s a real object, you can touch it, its full of discoveries and surprises always. Even for me after 25 years, almost, I still learn a lot of things about watches, how to craft, how to produce. The watch industry is always innovative, has to find new materials, new ways of producing, new technical things also, and it never stops. It』s not rigid, fixed in the past industry or object, it』s always moving, moving, moving ahead and it will never stop.

這個問題很棘手，不過我仍想從一些關鍵要素說起，首先還是激情。如果你不具備這一特質的話，很難在這一行做出成績。我身邊的每一位腕錶業同仁，無論是公司職員還是業界記者，可能角色不同，但一旦步入腕錶領域，便不太會選擇轉行。因為腕錶行業非常富有激情，同時又朝氣蓬勃。打個比方，如果是在銀行或金融機構任職，可能需要終日伏案處理Excel電子表格數據，工作內容非常虛擬化，而從事腕錶行業則非常不同，因為它是真實存在的，你可以真切地觸摸到它，而腕錶也總能帶給你驚喜。即便是像我這樣擁有近25年從業背景的人，在腕錶及製作工藝之路上仍然在不斷探索、學習。腕錶行業崇尚創新，在材料、生產方式以及工藝技術的創新應用方面始終走在時代前沿，從未止步。於它而言，墨守成規、沉迷過往不是主旋律;勇往直前，永不止步才是始終不變的追求。

4. Contemporary culture is deeply rooted in young generations in China. What are your perspectives on the combination of Chinese young consumers and premium brand culture?新生代文化對中國年輕人影響很深，您如何看待中國特定年輕市場與高端品牌文化之間的結合？

The watch landscape has changed during the last decade and in more recent years. I would say regarding Bulgari that we don』t have a long history regarding watch production at Bulgari, we are only for watches forty years old, compared to many other high-end contenders and competitors which are 250 years old even more. Our youth is a very positive, beneficial, advantage, it』s a strength, because we are not old-fashioned, we are not classical. We can, thanks to that younger experience, we can be very free in terms of creation, as you know we are Italians, Italians are very keen on design, you heard about design in Italy, and with Italy every day in everything, its lighting, its furniture, its cars, its watches at Bulgari as well. Look at the Octo, it is said among the top editorialists worldwide today, to be the most contemporary watch you can find on the market. It』s set to be the 21st century cult watch, and it』s not Pascal Brandt saying that, it』s the others saying that, which is a very good recognition. So, regarding young Chinese consumers, you look for difference today, of course we at Bulgari we try to offer difference, and we try double to offer difference. Why? Because the watch market is full of brands, its full of products, they all say we are different, 95% it』s not true. They propose very classical, very often old-fashioned products, which are all the same, we at Bulgari we propose difference, through design because design is a key today. If you consider the Octo compared to all the other male watches, just to name one example. You will see that most of the others are round shapes and you will see also that Octo is totally different from all the others. So, I think today it』s the way to speak to young generations also, rather than to offer dusty, dusty classical products.

過去十年間腕錶行業發生了巨大的變化。特別是在近幾年，變化尤為明顯。許多高端腕錶品牌擁有長達250年甚至更長時間的製表歷史。相比之下，寶格麗涉足高級製表行業只有短短的40年。儘管我們的製表歷史不能算悠久，但這卻賦予了我們區別於其他競爭對手的優勢：那就是銳意創新，拒絕因循守舊。這種優勢也讓我們在設計上擁有更大的自由度。誠如大家所知，寶格麗在義大利誕生。義大利人熱衷於設計，而義大利設計的影響幾乎滲透到我們生活的方方面面，小到室內照明，大到傢具、汽車。當然，還包括寶格麗腕錶。寶格麗Octo腕錶擁有遠超同類產品的現代化設計，獲得全球業界權威人士的一致認可。業內人士普遍認為寶格麗Octo腕錶勢將成為21世紀腕錶行業的偶像級產品。這一評價並非出自寶格麗品牌大使暨資深傳媒總監Pascal Brandt之口，因此代表了業內對寶格麗腕錶的高度認可。如今，中國的年輕消費者越來越追求個性化。這一點與寶格麗不謀而合，因為品牌始終致力於為消費者提供具有個性的腕錶產品。目前，腕錶市場魚龍混雜，充斥著各類製表品牌。這些品牌全都聲稱他們的產品與眾不同，但他們當中有95%其實都是在誇大其詞。他們的產品大多雷同，缺少創新。這與寶格麗對個性的不懈追求形成鮮明對比。設計已成為當今製表行業的關鍵詞，寶格麗始終致力於通過設計突破傳統的束縛。舉個例子，如果你將Octo腕錶和其他男士腕錶進行對比，你會發現大部分腕錶均採用圓形錶盤設計，而Octo腕錶獨特的外形則令其在眾多表款中脫穎而出。我認為這才是吸引年輕一代消費者的重要因素，因為傳統腕錶產品的魅力已經不復存在。

6. Watch is an accessory that indicates one"s personal style and characters. Based on your experience of managing multiple watch brands, what makes BVLGARI watches special from your standpoint?腕錶是展現個人形象與內涵的配飾，您經手了多個腕錶品牌，可以談談寶格麗腕錶最大魅力是什麼嗎？

I think Bulgari watches both for men and women, as I said previously, play on difference, we look for difference. So that』s the strength of our creations today, it』s being different its being connected to today』s world, and that』s it. It』s not easy, it』s easy to say, it』s difficult to achieve or to perform that when we create something. But so far when I see what we did at the last years at Bulgari the watch creations changed a lot for us, we are now perceived as a very hot, urban, contemporary brand, both for men and for women. And this is the best recognition we can deserve, because it』s a lot of work for my colleagues at Bulgari watch division in Switzerland.

正如我前面提到的那樣，寶格麗男士和女士腕錶均擁有獨特的設計風格。這就是寶格麗腕錶的魅力所在：它們既與眾不同，又緊跟時代潮流。這樣的融合說起來容易，但要實現起來卻很困難。得益於品牌近些年來的努力，寶格麗在製表領域取得了長足進步。如今，無論是在男士或是女士製表業，寶格麗已發展成為公認的充滿現代都市氣息的腕錶品牌。寶格麗非常珍惜這份認可，這是我們位於瑞士製表部門全體同事共同努力的結果。

7. What changes do you take as global trends that will transform the watch-making industry? How will BVLGARI take advantage of these trends to step up its brand promotion?腕錶有哪些全球趨勢性的變化，作為品牌傳播來說，如何把握趨勢？

The industry is changing and has changed. Twenty, twenty-five years ago buying a watch was aimed to know what time it is, this disappeared. The function of the watch is not today to know what time it is, we all have cell phones, one, two, maybe three in Italy, ladies especially. Now it』s not functional anymore the watch, the watch is just a piece of emotion, you love it you hate it, you want something that is your personality mirror, expression. So that』s why you buy a watch, or you are very knowledgeable and you look for something which is technically a collecting piece, a collector』s item, but you don』t want classical, old-fashioned collector』s items. You want a complication that is rooted into today』s world. For example, Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in carbon, we launched this year. It』s typical of what I』m saying, it』s very Bulgari because its disruptive, it』s the combination between the ultimate traditional movement, the chiming watch minute repeating, with a super high-tech case and bracelet. This is Bulgari because Bulgari is the only brand doing that kind of thing, if you consider a traditional Swiss watch brand proposing a new minute repeater, it will be most often proposed in a round shape case and in platinum or gold, so nothing new. Even if I pay tribute to those brands, for sure. But ours is totally disruptive in this landscape and we try to do things that are disruptive. I would sum up on that point and say Bulgari does things that others do not, we go where others don』t.

製表行業正在經歷變革，變化已經悄然發生。二十或二十五年前，大家買腕錶的主要目的是方便查看時間。而如今，這種購買意圖已不復存在。當前，腕錶的主要功用已經不再是顯示時間。在義大利，現在我們每個人都有手機，尤其是女性，有的或許擁有兩部甚至三部手機，我們可以通過手機查看時間。腕錶的功能性正在逐漸消失，取而代之更多的是它所具有的情感價值。你想要的是能夠體現你獨特個性和個人喜好的產品，這或許就是購買腕錶的原因吧。又或是滿腹學識的你想要一款具有收藏價值的腕錶，一款收藏家珍品。不過，也許你並不喜歡收藏家青睞的傳統、老舊的款式。你想要的是彰顯現代時尚風範且具有收藏意義的腕錶。我們今年推出的採用碳纖維材質打造的Octo Finissimo三問腕錶就是非常不錯的選擇。這款腕錶傳承寶格麗突破創新的精髓，配備傳統機芯、三問報時裝置以及科技感十足的錶殼和錶鏈。這就是寶格麗代表性的創新力作，只有寶格麗才能成就這樣頗具顛覆性的創新之舉。經典瑞士腕錶品牌在打造新款三問報時腕錶時，通常會選擇採用圓形錶殼和鉑金或黃金材質，沒什麼充滿新意的元素。當然，我個人對這些經典品牌滿懷敬意，不過我們的品牌更富開拓創新精神，我們也確實在不斷進行顛覆性的創新嘗試。一句話總結，寶格麗不走尋常路，致力於呈現不同尋常的佳作。

8. Some people say that men"s consumption power is underestimated, so what are BVLGARI"s strategic plans in terms of promoting men"s watches?有人認為男性消費實力被低估了，在男性腕錶市場宣傳方面，寶格麗有哪些策略？

I think sincerity, honesty are the key elements to reply to that question. Today we live in a very connected, digital world, things go fast. When I started journalism 25 years ago it was the empire of paper, today we have digital, everything goes fast, so you have to be as a brand, transparent, you have to be committed to honesty, reality and sincerity. You cannot anymore say anything about your identity, what you say thanks to digital, what you say must be matching with your reality. So, this is a big progress in terms of communication, but it』s a big challenge for us as well. So, for me key words are sincerity, honesty.

我認為真誠和誠信是兩大關鍵要素。如今，我們生活在一個互聯和數字化的時代，萬物發展瞬息萬變。25年前在我開始從事新聞工作時，媒體傳播行業還正處於紙媒統治的時代，而如今，世界卻已進入數字化時代。彈指之間，世事早已發生翻天覆地的變化。在這樣的時代背景下，品牌需要堅守透明公開、真誠信用和真實無欺的原則。面對數字化時代，品牌在宣傳方面需要求真務實、實事求是，不能毫無底線地隨意宣傳。這是品牌宣傳領域的一大進步，同時對我們而言也是一項新的重大挑戰。在我看來，真誠和誠信是應對這一挑戰的兩大關鍵。

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