解析那些品酒詞們：佛手柑，李子干，天竺葵，巴薩米香醋
插圖繪製：Kevin Pruitt
BERGAMOT 佛手柑
佛手柑的外形類似於矮小的梨，並帶有凹紋。顏色大多為黃色或綠色。佛手柑屬於柑橘家族，細分屬於帶有苦味的橘子家族。
儘管佛手柑可以食用，但由於果肉又硬又酸，通常被被製成果醬或果汁再食用。
佛手柑的果皮帶有豐富的精油，因此佛手柑也常被用於精油製作，更是伯爵茶（Earl Grey）的主要材料。
在品鑒干白葡萄酒時，佛手柑常備用來描述柑橘類香氣，其風味會比橘子來的苦，但比檸檬來得香甜。
德國雷司令時常出現佛手柑的風味，來自萊茵赫森（Rheinhessen Dreissigacker Bechtheimer Geyersberg便展現出「濃郁的佛手柑與茶葉芬芳，細品之下還有玫瑰與天竺藍的迷人風味。」
來自盧瓦河谷密思卡得（Muscadet），獲得96高分的2014 Pierre-Luc Bouchaud「Pont Caffino」帶有：「黃梨皮和一絲點燃的火柴風味，混合了橘子花與佛手柑的複雜氣息。」
一些高酸度的紅葡萄酒也會帶上佛手柑的風味，像來自智利利達谷（Leyda Valley）的2014年份Bisquertt「La Joya Gran Reserva」黑比諾，以及產於葡萄牙杜羅河谷的2015 Symington 「Altano Organic」都是絕佳的例子。
Bergamots are citrus fruits that are commonly shaped like yellow or green dwarf pears with dimpled skins, but theyare in fact a variety of bitter orange.
Although edible, bergamots are rarely eaten fresh due to their intensely acidic and tart-tasting flesh, which is more palatable in marmalade or juice form.
The incredibly aromatic essential oils in bergamot skins makes it very popular in perfumes and it』s also an importantingredient in Earl Grey tea.
When it comes to wine tasting notes,bergamot is a useful citrus fruit descriptor for certain dry white wines, as it expresses a flavour or aroma that is more bitter than oranges but sweeter than lemons.
Examples could include aromatic German Riesling wines, such as Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Geyersberg, Rheinhessen 2014, notedfor its 『powerful nose of bergamot and leaf tea』 followed by floral flavours of rose and geranium.
Or French Muscadet wines from the Loire Valley like the 96-point Pierre-Luc Bouchaud, Pont Caffino, Loire 2014, exuding complex aromas of 『golden pair skin and subtle struck match』 alongside orange blossom and bergamot.
Red wines with vibrant acidity could also express bergamot notes, such as Pinot Noirs like Bisquertt, La Joya Gran Reserva 2014 from Chile』s Leyda Valley and Portuguese red blends from DouroValley like Symington, Altano Organic 2015.
PRUNE 梅子干/西梅
任何品種的梅子在風乾後都能製成梅子干。大部分梅子乾果皮主要呈黑紫色。儘管皺巴巴的外表並不討喜，但它們具有濃郁甜美的乾果香，因此梅子干也是許多果醬、果汁和中東塔吉鍋菜肴里很常見的食材。
品酒詞中，梅子干屬於風乾與燉煮水果的家族，與家族裡的其他成員如葡萄乾，紅棗，果脯擁有相似風味。
由於這一類果香通過風乾或是熬煮得來（最大程度地濃縮了糖分），因此相比較於新鮮水果，這一類果香會有更集中的甜味。
許多擁有中等或飽滿酒體以及濃郁果香的干紅，在經過橡木桶陳年後，都會帶上梅子乾的風味。
使用桑嬌維斯或芭貝拉葡萄製成的義大利干紅，不僅果香馥郁，甚至會帶有一點果醬的風味，如：
Vignamaggio, Chianti, Classico GranSelezione 2011
Poggio Ridente, San Sebastiano, Barberad』Asti Superiore 2014
來自法國溫暖產區如朗格多克-露喜龍或南羅訥河谷的西拉以及歌海娜，也會有李子干風味。用這些葡萄釀製的葡萄酒，很多時候會集紅色、黑色、新鮮、烘烤和風乾水果的風味於一身。
產自聖西尼昂（St-Chinian）的2014 LaurentMiquel「Larmes des Fées」帶有：「香甜的李子和李子干芳香。入口充滿了令人振奮的李子干、黑醋栗以及洋李子風味。」
阿根廷的馬白克也帶有梅子干風味。來自阿根廷ParajeAltamira產區的2013 Gauchezco 「Oro」展現出了甘草糖和梅子乾的風味。
不過，極其年輕的干紅葡萄酒中如果也有果乾氣味，則暗示了採收時果實的情況。Jane Anson在《期酒名庄品鑒指南》中指出:「如果新年份的波爾多葡萄酒出現無花果和梅子干風味，那說明葡萄有點過熟了。」
Prunes are dried plums of any variety, typically blackish purple in appearance. Despite their shrivelled and wrinkly appearance, prunes are favoured in for their rich, sweet and juicy fruitflavours – making them a popular ingredient in jams, juices and Middle Eastern tagines.
In the wine lexicon prunes are found in the dried and cooked fruit category, as they share common flavour characteristics with raisins, dates and fruit preserves.
These descriptors have more concentrated sweet fruity flavours compared to fresh fruits, as sugars become concentrated through the processes of drying or cooking.
You can look for prune flavours and aromas in many medium to full bodied red wines with concentrated fruit flavours,typically those that have spent some time in oak.
For example fruit-forward, verging on jammy, Italian wines made from Sangiovese and Barbera grapes: Vignamaggio,Chianti, Classico Gran Selezione 2011, Poggio Ridente, San Sebastiano, Barberad』Asti Superiore 2014.
Or rich Syrah and Grenache wines from warmer French regions like Languedoc-Rousillon or southern Rh?ne. Tasting notes for these wines often contain clusters of multiple red, black, fresh, baked and dried fruit descriptors.
Laurent Miquel, Larmes des Fées, St-Chinian2014 was praised for its 『sweet plum and prune scents and exciting, generously fruity plum, blackcurrant and damson flavours』.
Other examples could include Argentinean Malbec wines, such as Gauchezco, Oro, Paraje Altamira 2013, which combines liquorice and prune notes.
In her guide on how to taste en primeurwines Jane Anson said 『fig and prune flavours can mean the fruit is slightly overripe』 in new vintages of Bordeaux wines.
GERANIUM 天竺葵
儘管天竺葵五顏六色的花朵招人愛，但其獨特的麝香花香主要來源於葉子部位，並被廣泛用於香水和香薰療法當中。
天竺葵屬於花香，因此屬於一類香氣。一類香氣主要源自葡萄本身，或是在酒精發酵當中產生，而非來自後續的釀酒工藝（二類香氣）以及陳年（三類香氣）。
天竺葵的花香比玫瑰帶有更多草本風味，但比接骨木花帶有更多的花香。
天竺葵風味主要體現在芳香型的白葡萄酒當中。義大利馬凱（Marche）大區傑西-卡斯特里-維德喬（Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi）產區中的一些高端並經過陳年的葡萄酒，便往往帶有天竺葵風味。來自此地的1991年Colonnara便擁有天竺葵，蜂蜜和香蕉的混合風味。
有些德國雷司令也會帶有天竺葵風味，像2014年Dreissigacker Bechtheimer Geyersberg便帶有類似「玫瑰和天竺葵果凍」的風味。
Geraniums are much loved for their vivid flowers, but it』s the leaves that are responsible for their distinctive musky-floral aroma; something that is widely used in perfumes and aroma therapy.
In the wine lexicon geranium is in the floral category of primary aromas, meaning it』s usually created by the grape and alcoholic fermentation, rather than winemaking techniques or ageing.
Within the floral category it can perhaps be thought of as more herbaceous than rose, though more floral than elderflower.
Geranium aromas are most commonly found in aromatic whites, such as premium aged examples Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, from the eastern Italian Marche region.
Colonnara, Verdicchio, dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 1991 melds geranium with floral-sweet honey aromas and banana.
Alternatively, you might find geranium notes in the floral aroma profile of German Rieslings, such as Dreissigacker, Bechtheimer Geyersberg 2014, exuding flavours of 『roses and geranium jelly』.
BALSAMIC 巴薩米醋
許多葡萄酒愛好者常犯的錯誤便是將巴薩米醋和產自於摩德納（Modena）的黑醋混為一談。
葡萄酒中出現的辛辣橡木風味會讓人們聯想到巴薩米醋。這種濃郁的樹脂風味主要來源於像香脂冷杉這類樹木。
在語言學中，巴薩米醋（Balsamic）和香脂冷杉（balsam）共享「balm」這一詞根。因此巴薩米醋的風味也會經常被拿來和乳香與沒藥相提並論，後兩者常被用於香水，焚香以及和藥材當中。
巴薩米醋濃郁的香料，木質和松脂風味是經過橡木桶陳年的紅葡萄酒常有的風味——這些風味主要源自橡木桶陳年。
一些上等的波爾多干紅中便有巴薩米醋的風味，像Decanter雜誌內容總編John Stimpfig給予了99分的2000年Chateau Lafleur便展現出「芬芳的甘草、鉛筆芯以及巴薩米醋的芬芳。」
澳大利亞設拉子的橡木風味濃郁辛辣，就類似巴薩米的風味——尤其是南澳的巴羅薩谷和庫納瓦拉葡萄酒。
在一些走粗獷路線、過桶的特級珍藏（GranReserva）里奧哈中，如2010年的Bodegas de la Marquesa「Valserrano Gran Reserva」中，就被酒評家形容為「松露和巴薩米醋香氣翩翩起舞。」
濃郁且帶有泥土風味的義大利干紅中也有巴薩米醋的身影，從北部皮埃蒙特的巴羅洛，中部托斯卡那的奇安蒂和蒙塔爾奇諾布魯諾（Brunello di Montalcino），再到南部用艾格尼科（Aglianico）釀造的葡萄酒。
典型葡萄酒：
Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo 2009
Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo, Chianti ClassicoGran Selezione 2014
La Magia, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva2012
Many wine lovers make the mistake of assuming that the tasting note balsamic relates to the dark vinegar from Modena.
But it』s more likely that the taster is referring to spiced wood aromas associated with balsam — an aromatic resin exuded by certain trees, such as the balsam fir.
Balsam comes from the same word root as『balm』 and it』s comparable to products like frankincense and myrrh, which are similarly used in perfume, incense and medicine.
Its concentrated spicy, woody, resinous flavour profile makes it a useful tasting note for red wines aged in oak, which can impart balsam-like aromas.
You can look for balsamic notes amongst the complex aromas of premium Bordeaux reds like Chateau Lafleur 2000, awarded 99 points by John Stimpfig, who praised its 『savoury liquorice, pencil lead』 notes with an undertone of balsam.
Australian Shiraz wines can have a strong savoury and spicy oak character that』s reminiscent of balsam, particularly examples hailing from southern regions like Barossa Valley and Coonawarra.
There are also bold and oaky Gran Reserva Riojas like Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano Gran Reserva, Rioja 2010, where『truffle and balsamic aromas dance』.
Many earthy and concentrated Italian reds are capable of balsamic characteristics, ranging from Barolo, Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino wines in Piedmont and Tuscany, to Aglianico wines in the south.
SEE: Brezza, Sarmassa, Barolo 2009 |Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2014 | La Magia, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012
（英文版撰寫：Laura Seal，編譯：ICY）
希望了解哪些品酒詞？
在後台留言給我們
說不定下期專欄就出現了哦~
TAG:Decanter醇鑒 |