窮人不配買？Burberry任性燒光8億庫存惹爭議
近日，巴寶莉發布的年度報告顯示，在截至今年3月31日的最近12個月里，他們燒掉了價值人民幣2.5億元的庫存，相當於8.1萬件格紋圍巾或2萬件經典風衣。
而過去5年中，巴寶莉銷毀產品的總價值甚至高達8億元！
這種寧願燒光也不打折出售的做法驚呆了國內外網友，引發了全球熱議。對於此事，你怎麼看？
Burberry, the upmarket British fashion label,destroyed unsold clothes, accessories and perfume worth ￡28.6m last yearto protect its brand.
英國高端時裝品牌巴寶莉去年共銷毀價值2860萬英鎊（約合人民幣2.56億元）未售出的服裝、首飾和香水，以維護自身品牌形象。
It takes the total value of goodsit has destroyed over the past five years to more than ￡90m.
過去5年中，該品牌銷毀的商品總價值超過了9000萬英鎊（約合人民幣8億元）。
Fashion firms including Burberry destroy unwanted items to prevent them being stolen or sold cheaply.
包括巴寶莉在內的時裝公司都通過銷毀不需要的商品，防止其被盜或低價出售。
Burberry said that the energy generated from burning its products was captured, making it environmentally friendly.
巴寶莉方面表示，已對燃燒這些產品所產生的能量進行了收集，所以不會對環境造成影響。
"Burberry has careful processes in place to minimise the amount of excess stock we produce. On the occasions when disposal of products is necessary, we do so in a responsible manner and we continue to seek ways to reduce and revalue our waste," a spokesperson for the company said.
該公司的一名發言人稱：「巴寶莉對於最大限度減少過剩庫存有著非常謹慎而到位的工序。在需要處置產品的情況下，我們會以負責任的方式進行，我們會繼續尋找減少廢棄物和重估廢棄物的方法。」
The FTSE 100 company said last year was unusual as it had to destroy a large amount of perfume after signing a new deal with US firm Coty.
這家富時100指數公司（譯者註：倫敦證券交易所上市的最大的一百家公司的股票指數）表示，去年是不同尋常的一年，因為與美國公司科蒂簽訂新協議後，不得不銷毀大量香水。
As Coty would be making new stock, Burberry had to dispose of ￡10m worth of old products - largely perfume.
由於科蒂將產生新庫存，巴寶莉不得不處理價值1000萬英鎊（約合人民幣8969萬元）的舊產品——主要是香水。
Over the past few years, Burberry has been working hard to make its brand exclusive again after it went through a phase when counterfeiters were "sticking the Burberry check on anything they could", said Maria Malone, principal lecturer on the fashion business at Manchester Metropolitan University.
過去幾年，巴寶莉再度努力使其品牌獨佔鰲頭，此前該公司經歷了一個山寨廠家「幾乎想把所有物品都貼上巴寶莉標籤」的階段，曼徹斯特大都會大學時裝業務首席講師瑪麗亞·馬龍說。
Destroying unwanted products is part of that process, she said.
她表示，銷毀不需要的產品是這個過程中的一個環節。
"The reason they are doing this is so that the market is not flooded with discounts. They don"t want Burberry products to get into the hands of anyone who can sell them at a discount and devalue the brand," Ms Malone said.
馬龍說：「他們這樣做的原因是，不想讓市場上充斥著該品牌的折扣商品。他們不希望巴寶莉產品被打折出售，這樣會貶低品牌價值。」
網友熱議
Many on social media have criticized the company for wastefully destroying clothing instead of putting it on sale or donating it to charitable cause, as part of a practice used by luxury brands to keep their products in the hands of only those who can afford it at full price.
社交媒體上許多網友都斥責巴寶莉這種銷毀衣物的浪費行為，他們認為應該降價出售或捐贈給慈善機構。奢侈品公司會採取銷毀產品等方式，保證他們的產品只賣給能夠全款購買的顧客。
An open letter posted Wednesday afternoon by online resale giant thredUp called out the British brand, saying, 「We can』t afford to waste perfectly good clothes anymore. We are in the midst of an environmental crisis exacerbated by the fashion industry.」 It claims the fashion industry causes 10 percent of global carbon emissions.
7月25日下午，線上二手服裝巨頭thredUp在網上發表了一封公開信，向巴寶莉公司喊話稱：「我們無法再忍受那麼好的衣服遭到浪費了。時尚業加劇了我們所面臨的環境危機。」 thredUp表示，時尚業的碳排放佔全球碳排放的10%。
「Today we invite you to send any unsold Burberry product to thredUp for resale back into the circular economy, and we』ll donate 100 percent of the proceeds to the environmental charity of your choice.」
「今天，我們邀請你們將未售出的產品轉手到thredUp平台上，重新流入循環經濟，我們將會把這一過程的所得款項，全部捐贈給你們所指定的環保組織。」
Carole Frances Lung-Bazile, an arts professor at California State University L.A. says: "These acts of brand protection are not surprising, just another confirmation about capitalism and an economy based on constant consumption, which is a race to the bottom for labor and the environment."
加利福尼亞州立大學洛杉磯分校藝術教授Carole Frances Lung-Bazile表示：「這些品牌保護行為並不意外，不過是再次證明了資本主義和基於持續消費的經濟，也是對勞動力和環境的逐底競爭（譯者註：race to the bottom 逐底競爭是國際政治經濟學的一個著名概念，意指在全球化過程中，資本流遍世界，就是為了尋找最高的回報率）。」
Twitter users also spoke up about the wastefulness and ethics of Burberry』s decisions, including actor Russell Brand, who wrote, 「This makes you feel an odd sense of anguish and doom.」 Others pointed out that many fashion brands follow suit, and Burberry doesn"t deserve the sole blame for sticking to the status quo.
推特用戶還揭示了巴寶莉此番決定涉及的浪費和道德問題，演員拉塞爾?布蘭德寫道：「這讓人有一種奇怪的痛苦和毀滅感。」還有人指出，許多時尚品牌都效仿了這一做法，不應該只有安於現狀的巴寶莉受到指責。
演員拉塞爾?布蘭德發推文反對巴寶莉
巴寶莉只是冰山一角
Burberry is not the only company having to deal with a surplus of luxury stock.
巴寶莉並不是唯一一家需要處理奢侈品庫存過剩問題的公司。
Richemont, which owns the Cartier and Montblanc brands, has had to buy back €480m (￡430m) worth of watches over the last two years.
過去兩年間，旗下擁有卡地亞和萬寶龍等品牌的歷峰集團不得不回購價值4.8億歐元（約合人民幣38.4億元）的手錶。
Analysts say some parts of those watches would be recycled - but much would be thrown away.
分析人士說，這些手錶的某些配件將被回收利用，但大部分將被丟棄。
Environmental campaigners are angry about the waste.
環保人士對這種浪費表示憤怒。
"Despite their high prices, Burberry shows no respect for their own products and the hard work and natural resources that are used to made them," said Lu Yen Roloff of Greenpeace.
綠色和平組織的Lu Yen Roloff說：「儘管巴寶莉的產品價格很高，但它對自己的產品、生產這些產品所需的辛勤勞動和自然資源毫不尊重。
"The growing amount of overstock points to overproduction, and instead of slowing down their production, they incinerate perfectly good clothes and products.
「越來越多的過剩庫存表明這些品牌生產過剩，但他們並沒有放慢生產速度，而是把非常好的衣服和產品燒個精光。
"It"s a dirty secret of the fashion industry. Burberry is just the tip of the iceberg," she said.
「這是時尚界的一個骯髒秘密。巴寶莉只是冰山一角。」她說。
時尚悖論
Tim Jackson, head of the British School of Fashion at the London campus of Glasgow Caledonian University, said luxury fashion firms such as Burberry faced a paradox.
英國格拉斯哥卡利多尼亞大學時尚學院倫敦分校的負責人Tim Jackson說，巴寶莉這樣的時裝奢侈品公司面臨著一個悖論。
To satisfy shareholders, they have to keep expanding even if that risks "creating excess stock".
為了滿足股東的利益，他們必須繼續擴張，即使這有可能「產生過剩的庫存」。
"There"s no way they are ever going to solve this problem", he said.
他說：「他們不可能解決這個問題。」
Last November, Burberry announced a revamp intended to "re-energise" its products over several years.
去年十一月，巴寶莉宣布了一項旨在幾年內「重新激活」產品的改造計劃。
That includes taking its brand further upmarket, closing stores that are not in "strategic" locations and creating a "centre of excellence" for luxury leather goods. It has also cut costs, which has helped boost profits.
該計劃包括將其品牌進一步推向高端市場，關閉不在「戰略」位置的門店，並為豪華皮具打造一個「卓越中心」。為了提高了利潤，巴寶莉公司還削減了成本。
In Burberry"s most recent financial year to 31 March, the company reported a 5% rise in profit to ￡413m, with sales little changed at ￡2.7bn.
在巴寶莉公司截至3月31日的最近一個財政年度，該公司宣布利潤增長5%，達到4.13億英鎊（約合人民幣37億元），而銷售額幾乎沒有變化，為27億英鎊（約合人民幣242億元）。
對於巴寶莉「寧燒不賣」的做法，你怎麼看？歡迎「寫留言」分享你的觀點~~
人人譯視界轉載自網路
人人譯視界是由原人人影視核心創始團隊研發的智能協同翻譯平台，提供智能翻譯工作台，支持文檔與視頻翻譯。可供團隊協作翻譯與個人任務管理。配備AI翻譯輔助系統、一站式視頻後期工具，AI聽譯並自動生成字幕，讓翻譯更高效，後期製作更輕鬆，註冊即可使用。
人人譯視界還擁有豐富甲方資源，與各大翻譯公司及大量商翻譯員達成戰略合作，有長期穩定的招標訂單來源，平台訂單每日更新，歡迎譯者及翻譯公司前來入駐。
入駐商翻：關注人人譯視界公眾號，根據提示完成個人能力認證及商翻登記。
TAG:人人譯視界 |