如何學習技術＆記錄、重放、回顧＆沒有人進行訓練，對嗎？
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《9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes》書摘總結8
目錄
3 How to learn technique
3 如何學習技術
4 Record, replay, review
4 記錄、重放、回顧
5 No one does drills, right?
沒有人進行訓練，對嗎？
3 How to learn technique
3 如何學習技術
Most climbers these days understand that their climbing would improve and they would get more out of their present level of strength and fitness if they learned to move better and more efficiently on the rock. In the past few years the sport has really started to accept that to achieve this, climbers need to pay attention to good examples and influences from which to copy good movement technique. Good examples might be climbing coaches, or just good climbers you can watch in the flesh or on videos.
如今，大多數攀岩者都明白，如果他們學會了在岩壁上移動得更好、更有效率的技術，他們的攀爬將會得到改善，他們將在目前的力量和身體基礎上更上一層樓。在過去的幾年中，這項運動已經開始接受這樣的事實，攀岩者需要注意好的例子和影響來學習良好的移動技術。好的例子可能是攀岩教練，或者只是你在現實中和視頻裡面看到的優秀攀岩者。
So now, the stumbling block is knowing what practical things climbers can do to teach themselves good technique. Climbers tell themselves, "I"m going to climb this hard route and consciously focus on my technique." But it doesn"t work! And what"s more it gets extremely frustrating. The conscious thought slows everything down, making you get pumped quickly. The conscious mind working with trial and error makes stupid mistakes and you fall off in a fluster. Even though you were concentrating harder than ever, it felt worse than normal, not better!
所以，現在的障礙是攀岩者該如何知道自己能做哪些實際的行動來自學好的技術。攀岩者告訴自己，「我想完成這條艱難的線路，所以我應該有意識地專註於我的技術。」但這一點也不起作用！更另人沮喪的是。刻意的想法會讓一切都慢下來，讓你的胳膊很快就變得酸漲。在刻意的想法下去嘗試，你會犯愚蠢的錯誤，陷入慌亂之中。即使你比以前更努力地集中精力，感覺只會比平時更糟，而不是更好！
The problem is that good technique, by necessity, is automatic and most of our technical decisions while climbing have to happen outside of conscious thought. There are just too many decisions to be made from second to second to control complex body movements and accelerations in different directions. As soon as we interfere with slow, clunky conscious processing, coordination falls apart on hard climbs. The conscious mind only has room to deal with a handful of movement decisions at any one moment.
問題是，好的技術，必然是下意識的，我們在攀岩時大部分的技術決策都是在意識思考之外發生的。從這一秒到下一秒需要做太多的決策，來控制複雜的身體移動。一旦我們受到緩慢、笨拙的意識處理過程的干擾，協調性就會在艱難的攀登中崩潰。任何時刻，有意識的大腦只有有限的空間去處理很少的攀爬移動決策。
So what to do? The best time to consciously work on your basic movement technique is generally away from your limit and on easier climbs where you have more thinking space to gather and process the feedback from your body on how you are moving. Warming up is a good time, easier routes and bouldering is also good. Repetitive training on climbs you know well can also be good for fine tuning movements, although it can have negative effects of it"s own if overused, as your body gets too accustomed to knowing what"s coming next.
所以該怎樣做呢？有意識地練習你的基本移動技術的最佳時間通常是遠離你的極限線路，在簡單的線路上去攀爬，這樣你就有更多的思考空間來收集和處理身體的反饋，感受身體的移動是怎樣完成的。熱身就是一個很好的時機，比較簡單的線路和抱石也很好。重複攀爬也可以很好地對移動技術進行微調，儘管它可能會產生負面影響，如果過度使用，可能會讓你的身體習慣了接下來的動作。
However, hard routes are important too because this is where all the pieces of the performance jigsaw must fit and work together. How do we get round the problem that we are too busy just trying to stay on the rock to worry about moment-by-moment analysis? The answer is we must do it afterwards.
然而，爬難線也很重要，因為這是各種能力綜合在一起協同工作的地方。我們到底該爬什麼線？我們太忙了，只是想去爬，而煩惱於時時刻刻的分析思考？答案是，我們必須在事後做這件事。
4 Record, replay, review
4 記錄、重放、回顧
A crucial skill as you advance in climbing is to be able to record what you just did and how you did it in fine detail for recall later. This is a learned skill and will take years to get really good at. But with some effort, you"ll learn to work back through routes you"ve just done in your minds eye, and 『feel" the body feedback in retrospect. What"s even better is that once you get good at this, it happens so much in the background of your mind that you don"t even know you are doing it.
在攀岩的進步中，一項至關重要的技能是能夠記錄下你剛剛做了什麼，以及你是如何做到的細節，以便於在下一次攀爬時依然能夠做得很好。這是一項有學問的技能，需要數年時間才能真正做好這一點。但是，通過一些努力，你將學會在大腦中對完成線路的移動技巧、身體感覺進行復盤，並在回顧時「感受」身體的反饋。更妙的是，一旦你擅長於此，它就會在你的頭腦中潛移默化的產生很多效果，以至於你自己都不知道發生了這些。
Replay and review of the moves you just did is also crucial to increase the volume of move information your mind deals with over time (and hence how much learning can occur). Climbing rock is a fairly short lived activity, especially sport climbing and bouldering. In a three hour bouldering session you might spend less than 30 minutes actually on the wall making moves, and the remaining time resting.
對你剛剛做的動作進行重放和回顧另外一個重要的意義在於，這可以增加你的大腦在一段時間內可以處理的動作的數量（也就是說，你可以學到多少知識）。攀岩是一項相當短暫的活動，尤其是運動攀和抱石。在3小時的抱石過程中，你可能會花不到30分鐘的時間在岩壁上做動作，剩下的時間都在休息。
Those who spend that resting time with the mind wandering elsewhere or just getting bored waiting for their body to be ready to climb again, or for their partner to get to the top of the route, learn to climb slowly and often stop learning altogether.
Those who replay the movements of the climb just done, recording which moves felt good or bad and looking back at the holds trying to understand why, and then plan their next attempt to try the movement a subtly different way, progress fast. Both the actual climbing, and the replay and tactical planning that occurs between climbs are crucial components of the learning. These climbers are storing up move processing time at a much higher rate than the 『passive" climbers and after a couple of short years will end up with a vastly wider and more consistent move repertoire.
那些把休息時間花在到處閑逛上的人，或者只是無聊地等著他們的身體恢復準備再次攀爬，或者看著他們的同伴爬到頂端的人，學習攀岩進步很慢，並且經常是完全停止了學習。
那些會重放剛剛完成的攀爬動作的人，記錄下來哪些動作感覺是好的，哪些是不好的，然後回頭思考，試圖理解其原因，然後計劃在下次嘗試中以一種微妙的略有不同的方式去嘗試這個動作，這樣的人會進步很快。實際的攀爬，重放能力，以及策略計劃，都是學習的關鍵組成部分。這些攀岩者比「被動」攀岩者擁有更快的速度去儲存動作處理過程，經過短短几年的時間後，他們將會得到一個更廣泛、更一致的動作庫。
Next time you are in a bouldering wall and see two good climbers working on the same boulder problem, listen to what they are saying to each other between attempts. They are constantly discussing the details of each move, voicing things they experienced on their last attempt and making observations about the other"s body positions and movements on their attempts. Watch how they unlock the climb"s secrets through systematic experimentation and discussion of the merits and peculiarities of each subtly different way of climbing the moves. This is technique training.
下一次，當你在岩壁前看到兩個優秀的攀岩者在爬同一條線路時，聽聽他們在每次嘗試之間的談話。他們不斷地討論每一個動作的細節，說出他們在最後一次嘗試時的感覺，並對對方攀爬時的身體姿勢和動作進行觀察。觀察他們如何通過系統的實驗和討論每一種微妙不同的攀爬方式的優點和特點來解開攀爬的秘密。這就是技術訓練。
5 No one does drills, right?
沒有人進行訓練，對嗎？
In other sports, athletes do drills. But climbers don"t. Why not, and is it a problem? Yes, and here"s why:
Other sports often have a distinct separation between practice and competition. Like tennis for example. Tennis players spend a lot of time hitting balls to each other as well as the actual matches. They get plenty of practice at both. What"s crucial here is the mindset of practice. During practice hitting, they are not trying to score points. It doesn"t matter if they make mistakes. In fact making the mistakes and learning to refine the techniques from them is the whole point.
在其他運動中，運動員會進行訓練。但攀岩者沒有。為什麼不訓練呢，這是一個問題嗎？是的,原因如下:
其他運動往往在訓練和比賽兩個方面有明顯的區別。比如網球。網球運動員花很多時間互相擊球，以及實際的比賽。他們在這兩方面都有大量的練習。這裡最重要的是練習的心態。在練習擊球時，他們並不是在試圖得分。他們是否會犯錯並不重要。事實上，犯錯誤並學會從中提煉技術就是目的。
Practice is also more systematic by nature -they spend an hour practicing serves, one after another, then smashes, then lobs etc. This focus on one part of the technical repertoire at a time, together with the freedom from having to worry about competing, means real progress is made.
他們的練習從種類上也更系統化——他們會先花一個小時練習發球，一個接一個的發，然後是扣殺，然後是挑高球等。這種專註於技術的一部分，再加上不用擔心競爭的自由，意味著真正的進步。
Climbers don"t do this. The activity is not set up for it. We don"t 『practice" and then 『perform』. We just 『climb』. Even when we see the climbing session as training, we still get hung up on trying to perform all the time. The result of this is basically that learning is a lot slower than it could be. We"re spending all the time trying to be 100% on every aspect, and fail to learn any single one effectively. It gets even worse when we get training so confused with performing that we take extra rest days to be strong for our training sessions, lest we perform badly on a route we feel we should" be able to do every session. Less and less practice movements get done this way, with less attention given to the movement because we are too busy worrying about the result of the movement.
攀岩者不會這樣做。這樣的訓練方式不是為它設置的。我們不會先「練習」然後去「表演」。我們只是「攀爬」。甚至當我們把攀岩作為訓練的時候，我們仍然會被套在試圖表演的心理中。這樣做的結果是，學習的速度比實際要慢得多。我們花了所有的時間試圖在每個方面都做到100%，但是卻沒有有效地學習到任何一個方面。更糟糕的是，當我們接受了如此混亂的訓練方式時，我們需要額外的休息時間來恢復訓練，以免我們在認為能夠訓練到每一個環節的線路上表現糟糕。在這種情況下，攀岩動作的練習越來越少，對攀岩動作的關注也越來越少，因為我們太過於擔心結果了。
When the idea of spending some time doing technique drills is suggested to climbers, it is met with confusion or indifference. I understand why. They think - "What exactly would that entail? When would you actually do it? I"ve never heard of other climbers doing it…"
Both understanding what a climbing technique drill would look like, and actually incorporating it into your climbing activity are big hurdles for the imagination that most climbers just feel lost in, and so ignore. The problem is that climbing moves are comparatively undefined compared to something like a golf swing, which has a consistent ideal movement to perfect, or tennis which has a cadre of shots to give structure to practice. Climbing moves are much more varied than this, but not so much that we can"t define certain key moves such as twisting to extend the shoulder and reach, rockovers, drop-knees etc.
當我建議攀岩者花些時間練習技術的時候，就會遇到困惑或冷漠。我理解為什麼。他們會想——「這到底需要怎麼做才是正確的？什麼時候會去做？我從來沒有聽說過其他攀岩者在做這件事……」
同時理解什麼是攀岩技術訓練，並且實際的把它融入到你的攀岩活動中，這對大多數攀岩者來說是一種巨大的障礙（無法理解），可以想像他們會感到迷茫，然後忽略掉這些。
問題是，攀岩中的移動是相對難以定義的，它不像高爾夫揮杆這樣的動作有一個完美的理想動作，或者是網球，它有一組基本的擊球動作來進行訓練。攀岩的動作比這要複雜得多，但並不是說我們不能定義一些關鍵的動作，比如擰身探肩、轉移重心、折膝等。
So how can we build systematic technique drills into our climbing, without it becoming overly scientific or regimented? The first and most obvious way discussed above is during your warm-up. The climbing is below your limit, so you have mental energy left over to concentrate on the quality of the movement. Pick one thing at a time to focus on - keeping arms straighter during foot movements, foot precision, or speed or fluidity. At first you"ll need to consciously tell yourself to do this to break habits of just climbing passively without thinking too much. Through sustained application, good climbers have developed the habit of concentrating (drilling) on one specific aspect in their mind and movements so much that they don"t even realise they are doing it.
那麼，我們怎樣才能在我們的攀爬過程中建立系統的技術訓練，而不讓它變得過於科學或嚴格呢？上面討論的第一個也是最明顯的方法是在熱身的時候。攀爬低於你的極限難度的線路，所以你有精神上的能量來集中注意力在移動的質量上。一次只挑一個方面來集中注意力——在手臂打直的情況下，練習腳步移動、踩點準確性、攀爬速度或攀爬流暢性。一開始，你需要有意識地告訴自己這樣做是為了打破不去思考被動地攀爬的習慣。通過持續的實踐，優秀的攀岩者已經養成了在頭腦中集中注意力訓練某一個特殊方面的習慣，以至於他們甚至沒有意識到自己已經自然而然的在這樣做了。
The second situation where technique drills commonly happen for good climbers is while working boulder problems, or sections of routes. Repeatedly trying short sections, single moves or even parts of single moves (one foot move for example) to perfect and subsequently link the moves. The mistake of some climbers is to simply try over and over, focusing their mind"s energy on simply pulling harder and grabbing the next hold as quickly and accurately as possible. Delivering 100% focus on physical effort during the move is the final piece of the redpoint process, not the first. The habit of good climbers is to focus the mind simply on getting feedback from the body while trying a move, looking for parts of the body or movement that feel 『 wrong』. They think of every possible way of doing the move and work through them one after the other, listening to the body feedback each time. By doing this, patterns emerge in what feels 『wrong" and what feels 『right" for that movement, that layout of holds. The result is twofold. First: the very best way to do the move is learned by elimination of poorer options. Secondly, and more importantly, the mind has been exposed to a large number of separate pieces of information about what works well and what doesn"t for a particular layout of holds. All this information and learning on just one move! This way the countless attempts on moves or sequences that goes on during a session (and then a whole year of bouldering sessions) adds up to a massive number of separate technique drills, and a lot of movement learning.
第二種情況是，對於優秀的攀岩者來說，技術訓練通常發生在解決抱石問題，或者是攀爬難度線路的時候。反覆嘗試某一個動作序列、某個單步動作甚至是單步動作的一個部分（例如一隻腳的移動）來完善這些動作並隨後串聯這些動作。一些攀岩者的錯誤是簡單地反覆嘗試，把他們的注意力集中在簡單地用力拉起自己然後儘可能的快速和準確抓住下一個手點上。在攀爬的過程中，專註於體力狀況是紅點過程的最後一環，而不是第一個要關注的。好的攀岩者的習慣是把注意力集中在嘗試移動時從身體上獲得的反饋，尋找身體的某些部位或動作感覺「不好」的地方。他們會想到每一種可能的方法，一種接一種的嘗試，感覺每一次身體的反饋。通過這樣做，就能知道感覺「不好」的動作，以及哪個動作的感覺是「正確的」，這依賴於岩點的布局。結果是雙重的。首先：最好的學習動作的方法是通過消除較差的選項。其次，更重要的是，大腦已經接觸到大量的獨立信息，關於什麼動作是有效的，什麼動作不適合特定的點位布局。所有這些信息和學習僅僅是一個動作的學習！通過這種方式，無數次的動作或序列持續在一次訓練中進行（然後是一整年的抱石訓練），這就增加了大量的獨立的技術訓練，以及大量的動作（移動）學習。
So, it"s about what your mind is focusing on during your climbing, forgetting about performing all the time and making more of your opportunities to turn normal climbing into technique drills. It"s possible for two identical climbers to do exactly the same session (a warm up and session of working through boulder problems or routes) but only one to experience technique drills that will make progress in technique learning. Climber 『A" thinks about what he"s going to have for dinner during warm-up and thinks about nothing but pulling harder next attempt during the boulder problems. Climber 『B" chooses a specific aspect of his movement to focus on during his warm up climbs (tonight it"s swapping feet). Then he consciously replays each attempt on the hard problems in his mind, looking for parts of moves that feel wrong and why (e.g. left foot seems too low). Only when he"s close to the problem does he stop thinking and just give 100% physical effort to finish the problem off. And if this isn"t enough, it"s back to 『feedback" mode to further refine the move that"s causing the fall. After three years of this, climber 『B" is a much better climber than 『A" even though they have done the same number of climbing hours.
The message: Spend more time learning climbing. Perform only at the right moment.
所以，這裡講述的是你的大腦在攀登過程中應該關注什麼，忘記一直表演的場景，創造更多的機會把正常的攀岩變成技術訓練。兩個水平相當的攀岩者有可能完成相同的訓練（熱身和練習抱石或路線），但只有一個人體驗到技術訓練，這將使他在技術學習中取得進步。攀岩者A在熱身時想的是晚餐吃什麼，在抱石的時候只是嘗試更用力的拉起自己除此之外別無思考。攀岩者B選擇了他移動中的一個特定的方面，在他的熱身活動中去專註練習（今晚是換腳）。然後，他有意識地在腦海中反覆地回想每一次嘗試難線時的感覺，尋找那些感覺不對勁的部分，以及思考原因（例如，左腳點似乎太低了）。只有當他接近完成這條線路的時候，他才會停止思考，然後付出100%的努力來完成這條線路。如果這還不夠，那就重新回到「反饋」模式來進一步完善導致脫落的動作。經過3年的努力，攀岩者B比A爬的要好的多，儘管他們的攀爬時間一樣多。
總結陳詞：花更多的時間學習攀岩。只在適當的時候表演。
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