我需要多輕的體重？＆如何在沒有痛苦的情況下減重？

最新 08-17

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《9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes》書摘總結14

24 How light do I need to be?

24 我需要多輕的體重？

25 How to get light without pain?

25 如何在沒有痛苦的情況下減重？

26 Steps for weight management in climbing

26 攀岩中減重的步驟

24 How light do I need to be?

24 我需要多輕的體重？

It』s clear that strength to weight ratio is very important in climbing, and there"s very few climbers around who wouldn"t benefit from prioritising a change in some aspect that contributes to it. Nevertheless, a little more detail is needed to get a clear picture of what a good climbing-specific strength to weight ratio means.

很明顯，在攀岩中，力量與體重的比重是非常重要的，而且很少有攀岩者不會因為在某些方面的改變而受益。儘管如此，我們還是需要更多的細節來清楚的了解一個好的攀岩特有的力量體重比的意義。

Taking the strength side of the ratio first, the area of the body that requires the most work to gain strength is the fingers. However, the whole upper body musculature needs to be strong enough to manoeuvre the body around in awkward or extreme positions which requires a lot of force. The amount of muscle required in the upper body depends on the weight of the rest of the body. Ideally, if the lower body is not so well developed, the upper body needn"t be either. So the whole climber is lighter. On the most brutally powerful of moves, it can be a disadvantage not to have enough muscle, but this is more than outweighed by the advantage of being light if the climber wants to be good at routes. More muscle is not such a huge disadvantage on very short routes and in bouldering, but carrying big heavy muscles a long way up a cliff, when all of their firepower is only occasionally needed is inefficient.

首先，在力量方面，手指是需要最多付出才能獲得力量的身體部位。不管怎樣，整個上半身的肌肉組織需要足夠強壯來讓身體在尷尬的情況下或者需要很大力量的極限姿勢下進行移動。上半身所需要的肌肉量取決於身體其他部位的重量。理想情況下，如果下半身塊頭不大，上半身也不需要很大的塊頭。這樣攀岩者整個人就比較輕。在最殘酷的需要力量的移動中，如果沒有足夠的肌肉，這可能是一種劣勢，但如果攀岩者想要在一整條線路上爬得更好，那麼體重輕更有優勢。在非常短的線路和抱石的情況下，更多的肌肉並不是一個巨大的劣勢，但是帶著沉重的肌肉爬長線，而肌肉的力量只是偶爾需要的時候，就很不划算了。

The weight part of the ratio needs to be seen as two separate issues -lean mass (muscle) and fat. Lots of climbers would benefit from having less of both. In fact, often a lot less. However, there are some complicating issues because of the interdependence of the different facets of performance in climbing. The effect of shedding, for example, 5kg of excess body fat on climbing ability is not a fixed quantity that will be similar for any climber. Several things could make the size of the effect radically different. First, the effect of shedding weight will be much greater if the climber has good technique. It will also be greater for a stronger, fitter climber. The more weight stands out as a critical weakness in the climber"s game, the bigger the effect of shedding excess weight will have.

體重需要被看作是兩個獨立的部分——肌肉和脂肪。很多攀岩者都能從兩者的減少中獲益。事實上，收益通常要少得多。然而，由於攀岩運動的不同方面的相互依賴，使得問題變得複雜。例如，減重的效果，例如5公斤的多餘脂肪對攀爬能力的影響，對於任何攀岩者來說都是不一樣的。有幾件事可以使效果大小完全不同。首先，如果攀岩者有很好的技術，那麼減肥的效果會更大。對於一個更強壯、更健康的攀岩者來說，它也會更大。因體重太大而爬的不好的攀岩者減掉多餘的體重的效果也越大。

There are a significant proportion of climbers who have the opposite problem-they have a naturally very light frame and low body fat percentage apparently no matter what they eat. They have a great base to start from in climbing, but a big challenge too. Their challenge is to be able to make significant gains in muscle to manage the really powerful moves. Many of them never manage it because they avoid their opportunities to. Many lighter-built climbers gravitate towards what they are inevitably most suited for -long fingery endurance climbs. That is fine of course, but even for these climbs, attacking the really steep powerful boulder problems and routes will help gain enough muscle to deal with more powerful moves.

有相當比例的攀岩者有相反的問題，不管他們怎麼吃，他們都有一個自然的非常輕的身體和很低的體脂率。他們有一個很好的攀岩起點，但也有很大的挑戰。他們的挑戰是如何從肌肉中取得顯著的進步來駕馭真正需要力量的動作。他們中的許多人從來都無法駕馭需要力量的動作，因為他們逃避鍛煉的機會。許多體重輕的攀岩者被吸引到他們必然的最舒適的區域——長時間的手指耐力攀爬。當然，這也很好，但即使是在這些攀爬過程中，克服真正陡峭的抱石問題和運動攀線路也有助於獲得足夠的肌肉來應對更有力的動作。

So what exactly is a good weight for climbing? Of course I cannot answer that numerically! I can only say that the ideal body composition for climbing is as low as possible body fat percentage (that can be managed safely and comfortably in conjunction with a hard physical sport), a fairly small lower body muscle mass and a small but significant upper body muscle mass.

Whether climbers should consider manipulating their weight depends on the starting weight, muscle mass, body fat, age, gender and the climbing goals. Ignoring any one of these factors will lead to making poor choices with regards to aiming for the right weight, with serious negative consequences.

那麼，攀岩時最合適的體重是多少呢？當然，我不能用數字來回答這個問題！我只能說，攀爬的理想體型是儘可能低的體脂率（可以安全舒適地與體能運動結合起來），一個相當小的下半身肌肉群和一個小而有效的上半身肌肉群。

攀岩者是否應該考慮控制體重取決於起始體重、肌肉質量、體脂、年齡、性別和攀爬目標。忽視其中任何一個因素都會導致在正確的體重上做出錯誤的選擇，並帶來嚴重的負面後果。

A significant proportion of world class climbers maintain exceptionally low body fat percentages for large parts of the year (but rarely indefinitely). For males this might be around 4% and for females 10-12%. Most climbers would really struggle to maintain this without running into health problems related to nutrition without professional supervision. 8-10% for males and around 22% for females is a more realistic ideal fat percentage. 3% body fat in males and 12% in females is essential for normal physiological function of the body.

相當大比例的世界級攀岩者在一年的大部分時間裡保持著異常低的體脂率（但很少是無限期的）。對男性來說這可能是4%左右，女性為10%-12%。大多數攀岩者在沒有專業人士監督的情況下，很難維持這一水平而不涉及到營養方面的健康問題。男性8%-10%，女性22%左右（一個30歲左右身高165厘米體重50公斤的女性，體脂率約為24%）是更現實的理想脂肪比例。男性體內的脂肪含量為3%，女性為12%（下限），這對維持身體的正常生理功能來說是必不可少的。

Maintaining a really low body fat can have serious health implications for either sex, but it is an especially pertinent issue for females, whose safe lower limit of body fat varies dramatically from person to person. Menstrual dysfunction (amenorrhoea) is caused by the physiological stress of reducing body fat stores too far, and leads to bone loss and other serious health problems. 40% of females of reproductive age participating in regular sporting activity suffer from amenorrhea, compared to 2-5% in the general population. The first signs of this are irregular menses (oligomenorrhoea). The symptoms can usually be reversed by increasing energy intake a little, giving resumption of the menstrual cycle. However, chronic calorie restriction of over three years has been shown to cause irreversible bone loss (osteoporosis) in distance runners. Increasing body fat to 17% is thought to be a critical level for onset of menstruation and 22% to ensure normal menstrual cycles. The variation in the safe lower body fat limit for females is due to the additional contribution of various factors such as genetics, nutrition, additional stress and lifestyle factors. Hence, there are many female athletes who sustain a body fat percentage under the critical 17% level without menstrual dysfunction.

保持一個非常低的體脂率對男性女性都有嚴重的健康影響，但對於女性來說，這是一個特別重要的問題，因為她們的體脂率的安全下限在人與人之間有很大的差異。月經紊亂（閉經）是由減少體脂儲存的生理壓力引起的，並導致骨質疏鬆和其他嚴重的健康問題。參加正規體育活動（體育行業）的育齡婦女中，有40%的人患有閉經，而在一般人群中這一比例為2%-5%。第一個跡象是不規則的月經（月經過少）。這些癥狀通常可以通過增加少量的能量攝入來逆轉，從而恢復月經周期。然而，超過3年的長期限制卡路里攝入已經被證明在長跑運動員中造成了不可逆轉的骨質流失（骨質疏鬆症）。將身體脂肪增加到17%被認為是月經的臨界水平，22%是為了確保正常的月經周期。女性安全的低體脂率限制的變化是由遺傳、營養、額外的壓力和生活方式等因素共同決定的。因此，有許多女性運動員在沒有月經障礙的情況下，在17%的臨界水平下維持著體脂率。

The risks of manipulating body fat to low levels are also severe for children and youth climbers, who risk stunting their growth and interfering with the development of their bodies and causing a series of other developmental negative effects. Quite apart from the associated health problems, these effects end up being completely counterproductive for your climbing.

對兒童和青年攀岩者來說，將身體脂肪控制在低水平的風險也很嚴重，這有可能會阻礙他們的成長，干擾他們的身體發育，並造成一系列其他的發育不良問題。除了相關的健康問題之外，這些影響最終會對你的攀岩產生完全相反的效果。

The correct attitude to have to weight and climbing is to keep a sense of perspective and develop a keen ear for the messages from the body as you grow and progress as a climber at whatever level. Young climbers need the long term advantages of being able to develop strong and healthy tendons and build muscle tissue far more than they need the short term advantage of making a weight that requires constant attention to maintain. Those that restrict eating chronically at an early age pay for it later with injury and limited potential to develop to a really high level. Excess weight is extremely rarely the overriding weakness for female climbers. If any weight manipulation is needed, it"s more often gain in upper body muscle mass from powerful climbing that would help. Normally, the effect of changes in body mass for females are completely masked by the much more common and larger weaknesses of fear of falling and its consequences for technical efficiency.

正確的態度是保持一種通透的察覺，並在成長的過程中不管是什麼攀爬水平，都對身體的信息產生敏銳的感覺。年輕的攀岩者需要關注長期的優勢去發展強壯和健康的肌腱，並建立肌肉組織，而不是持續的關注短期優勢去控制體重。那些在很小的時候就長期限制飲食的人在以後會因為受傷而付出代價，並且會限制他們發展到一個非常高的水平的潛力。超重很少是女性攀岩者最重要的弱點。如果需要進行任何體重控制，那麼從需要力量的攀岩中獲得的上半身肌肉會更有幫助。通常情況下，女性身體質量變化的影響完全被更常見和更大的弱點——害怕脫落所掩蓋，這也影響了技術的效率。

The most common group among climbers who would benefit from losing weight tend to be male climbers in their 20"s and beyond. Body fat percentage is often at 20% or more and would benefit from a modest reduction. Even for those who have a low body fat percentage, involvement in other 『lower body sports" (e.g. cycling) results in a high muscle mass in the lower body. The starts to limit development increasingly at the upper grades in climbing. Some careful weight reduction can help to add more leverage to the other performance aspects. For a handful of climbers out there who are elite in most performance aspects, it may even be the final piece of the jigsaw puzzle that opens the door to the top level. For this group, educating themselves in sound, scientifically based sports nutritional practice (beyond the scope of this book) will allow them to walk this risky line between a real performance edge and a dangerous and counterproductive obsession.

通常能從減肥中獲益的攀岩者是那些20歲及以上的男性人群。體脂率通常是20%或更多，會從適度的減重中受益。即使對於那些身體脂肪含量較低的人來說，參與其他「下半身運動」（如騎自行車）也會導致下半身的塊頭增加。隨著攀爬等級的增高會受到限制。一些適當的減重可以對其他方面的能力增加更多的影響。對於少數在大多數能力方面都是精英的攀岩者來說，它甚至可能是揭開通往頂層的大門的最後一塊拼圖。對於這群人來說，在健康的、基於科學的體育營養實踐中進行自我教育（超出了本書的範圍）將使他們能夠走上這條危險的道路——在真正的頂級能力邊緣和危險的、適得其反的痴迷之間。

25 How to get light without pain?

25 如何在沒有痛苦的情況下減重？

The basic elements of losing body mass for sport are relatively simple. Yet in causes more headaches and confusion than maybe any other performance aspect in climbing. At its foundation is the energy balance equation: if 『calorie in』 falls short of 『calories out』, the athlete will lose weight. But everyone knows the reality of weight loss is a much more complex picture of interactions of different factors that influence our calorie consuming and expending habits. Navigating this minefield is made harder still by the constant distraction of unscientific and poorly thought out diet books churned out by the weight control industry, driven by profit, not by motivation to help you.

運動減肥的基本要素相對簡單。然而在攀岩中，相比攀岩的其他能力方面，這會讓你感到更多的頭痛和困惑。它的基礎是能量平衡公式：如果「攝入卡路里」低於「消耗卡路里」，運動員就會減重。但每個人都知道，減肥的現實是一幅更複雜的關於不同因素相互作用的畫面，這些因素會影響我們的卡路里消耗和消耗習慣。在這個雷區中穿行的過程變得更加困難，因為不科學的、缺乏思考的減肥書籍大量的被減肥行業炮製出來，這是由利潤驅動的，而不是出於幫助你的動機。（譯者註：所有無論是否有明星代言的減肥產品廣告都是騙子，無一例外）

A thorough discussion of this subject is beyond the scope of this book (l am preparing a dedicated title for climbers shortly after this book). However, I have outlined some of the main tenets of successful weight loss for climbers (athletes) below.

Simply eating a healthy 『athlete"s diet" together with maximising physical activity to use more energy is the single best method to achieve and maintain a low body fat percentage. The 『athlete"s diet』 differs slightly from a recommended diet for non-training situations in two main aspects. First, a higher proportion of carbohydrate is needed, and second, the timing of meals becomes important to improve the rate and quality of recovery from training.

對這一主題的深入討論超出了本書的範圍。然而，下文我已經概述了攀岩者（運動員）成功減肥的主要原則。

簡單地吃一個健康的「運動員餐」和最大限度的體育鍛煉來消耗更多的能量是達到和保持低體脂率的最佳方法。在兩個主要方面，「運動員餐」與非訓練情況的推薦飲食略有不同。首先，需要更高比例的碳水化合物，其次，進餐的時間對於降低體脂率和從訓練中恢復的質量是很重要的。

Making sense of the popular diets

Lots of climbers have experimented with the multitude of famous 『branded" dieting methods sold to you via books or subscriptions. The best known examples include the Atkins diet which recommends drastically reducing carbohydrate intake, or the GI diet which recommends use of particular types of carbohydrate to reduce appetite. These dieting ideas tend to propose a mechanism that revolves around a complicated aspect of human metabolism or the chemical makeup of the foods we eat. Some of these mechanisms can be quite valid, even proven by good quality research. However, the suggested mechanism (designed to make you believe that this diet will be more successful than another) is probably not the primary mechanism that contributes to any weight loss experienced. This is down to the diet plans causing you to tip the energy balance -i.e. eating less calories, or using more through activity.

對大眾飲食的理解

許多攀岩者嘗試過大量的著名的「品牌」節食方法，那些通過書籍或訂閱銷售給你的。最著名的例子包括Atkins飲食法，它建議大幅減少碳水化合物的攝入量，或者建議使用特定類型的碳水化合物的GI飲食來降低食慾。這些節食的想法傾向於提出一種機制，它圍繞著人類新陳代謝的複雜方面，或者是我們所吃的食物的化學組成。其中一些機制是相當有效的，甚至可以通過高質量的研究來證明。然而，很多建議的機制（旨在讓你相信這種飲食會比另一種更成功）可能並不是導致任何體重減輕的主要機制。只是由於飲食計劃導致你的能量平衡——即少攝入熱量，或者通過運動消耗更多的能量。

In this way, elements of what these popular diets recommend can be useful or even essential tools for some to lose weight in the short term. In the longer term however, many of these diets are extremely unsuccessful in helping dieters hold on to their lower weight. This is especially true when they recommend eliminating whole food groups or combining foods in unappealing or socially inconvenient ways. What"s more, this is not necessary.

這些流行的節食方法在短期內可能是有用的，甚至是一些減輕體重的必要工具。然而，從長遠來看，許多節食方法在幫助節食者保持較低體重方面是極其不成功的。尤其是當他們建議淘汰整個食物組，或者將食物以不吸引人的方式或不方便的方式組合在一起時，更是如此。更重要的是，這是完全不必要的。

The evidence shows that successful long term weight control is most likely when a handful of components are used in combination. These include:

- Increasing activity.

- Gentle moderation of portions and treats, applied with flexible restraint.

- Slow weight loss with modest, achievable goals.

- Varied, healthy diet with plenty of low energy density foods (mainly fruit and veg).

- Use of additional techniques to take attention away from appetite.

Using only one or two of these components in isolation makes it much harder to succeed at weight control. At the very least, it will delay success and make the process more painful for those who wish to lose weight.

有證據表明，成功的長期體重控制很可能只需要幾個方面的組合。這些方面包括:

- 增加運動。

- 柔和的適度節制飲食，靈活的約束。

- 用適度的、可實現的目標來緩慢降低體重。

- 多種多樣的健康飲食，有大量低能量密度的食物（主要是水果和蔬菜）。

- 使用額外的技術來轉移人們對食慾的注意力。

單獨運用其中的一個或兩個方面會使在控制體重上取得成功變得困難。至少，它會推遲成功，讓那些想減肥的人更痛苦。

26 Steps for weight management in climbing

26 攀岩中減重的步驟

（這節內容太多，不翻譯了，大致內容和其他地方說的差不多）

大致總結一下：

首先，好的開始很重要。這決定了你能否堅持下去。明確自己的體脂率是否真的有必要減肥。減肥計劃要制定的溫和可行。如果有時間和條件，盡量用大量簡單的攀爬來代替其他有氧運動（同時還能練到技術）。飲食上注重健康飲食。轉移對飢餓的注意力。吃低熱量的食物。營養也要全面，才能讓身體從疲勞中得到恢復。