So many bad cooks in the kitchen—— 致那些不知道自己在幹什麼的所謂時尚博主

　　The biggest problem about "fashion bloggers" or KOL/ 網紅 here today is that, most just want to be the cover girl/ boy/ woman/ man, showing off themselves and forgetting the rest.

　　時尚博主、KOL（意見領袖）、網紅，這個群體發展到現在面臨的最大問題正是他們太「想紅」。想紅，想成為封面女郎「男郎」，挖空心思花式秀自己。別的沒了。

　　Chiara Ferragni，宇宙第一號時尚博主，你以為她只是靠著天生麗質和好品味，一個人隨便照幾張照片就吸粉無數？

　　Yes, it feels good, and perhaps dope to look good in nice outfits in a picture or a video. Then who gets to do the dirty work behind: the creative, the PR, the planning and the execution, etc? One man"s army or a small team usually cannot handle it.

　　Chiara Ferragni probably has 15-20 people on the core team. And yes, she looks as great as a first-rate model. Effortless chic is simply effortful.

　　In this digital age, social influence is a must-have plus, but probably it is not something that can survive on its very own.

　　的確，看自己在鏡頭下如此美帥酷炫，感覺絕對倍兒爽。但是鏡頭後又是誰在為了一張照片、一個視頻而勞心勞力？

　　Chiara Ferragni，宇宙第一號時尚博主，你以為她只是靠著天生麗質和好品味，一個人隨便照幾張照片就吸粉無數？簡直天真。所謂effortless chic毫不費力的時尚，根本就是個曠日持久的苦行。她的成功背後有至少15到20人的核心團隊在運作：創意、公關、計劃安排和執行，等等等等；這些人共同創造了一個童話，讓她看上去像個頂級超模。

　　換句話說，在這個數碼時代，誰都能紅，但不是誰都能一直紅；影響力和戀愛關係一樣需要智慧的經營。

　　對，你可以盡情P圖，但放下圖片，你的真實身高、身材、穿衣風格和時尚觸覺，是沒有可能從無到有PS出來的。

　　Sometimes it feels just weird to see random people in completely-off-but-fancy outfits trying so hard to look like someone big.

　　As I was told recently in Shanghai, some even worked hard to get a photographer as boyfriend. And even so, she still looked bad in pictures. These people tried so hard to act like a pseudo celebrity or supermodel by faking but they are not even close. The photos can cheat, but their actual height, body figure, personal style & fashion sense cannot.

　　And now the trend of the whole blogsphere is BE REAL (Unfortunately many people here therefore resort to plastic surgeries but that type of beauty fades away with age and is only skin deep). If you cannot get organic followers in real life, you should consider giving up doing it in "reel" life.

　　可惜的是在這個所謂時尚紅人群體里，能像Chiara一樣聰明的少之又少。更多時候我們看見的是一些偽時尚咖，拚命往身上堆大牌或者浮誇單品，想讓自己看上去像那麼回事。

　　最近我還聽說有個混跡上海的外國妹子找了個攝影師當男朋友，但她的照片看上去還是莫名其妙。我很想勸勸這些假名流、假名模們多看看真正好的設計／作品，補一補內涵，不要一味模仿人家的外表，那只會越差越遠。對，你可以盡情P圖，但放下圖片，你的真實身高、身材、穿衣風格和時尚觸覺，是沒有可能從無到有PS出來的。

　　更何況現在全世界的社交網路都在走向真實，BE REAL（不幸的是很多人把PS從圖片延伸到生活里，靠整容創造「真實」的美，但這種美彌散著一股塑料味，消退很快，並且肉眼可見的淺薄）。如果真實的你不能讓人由衷讚賞，基本上你也不太可能在網路上收到很多點贊。

　　當然我會經常應要求穿特定單品出鏡，不過我不怎麼享受這類合作；我寧願花精力去想怎麼讓更適合的人穿上好的設計。

　　Me as a blogger in the past? Yes, been there, done that. But I started off this thing writing fashion in Paris five years ago. I know how respectful I am for design over my own generic face.

　　I was often pushed by designers to showcase certain products within a deadline but I secretly hated it. And I did have quite a lot of followers from my big classes, TV shows and event exposure since day one.

　　I got people commented on my posts and picked on my looks and then I knew how to do better. Well, many people today probably got no substantial following but many faked numbers and not one actual person around telling them that they look like crap (or they refuse to take the criticism).

　　And the fact is, looking back, I came to the conclusion that most of the income I generated is from the service that my team provided other than the "blogging & posting" food chain. People could kill for one bag simply because it looks nice. It"s more appealing to see someone good-looking holding it and it would work wonders if it"s carried nicely by a supermodel or celebrity.

　　A really successful digital campaign also needs at least a complete team for nice creative and good buzz. Even the people in the picture should vary according to design/ tones/ target consumers. And it is always the production team that makes the campaign that deserves the most.

　　這麼說好像我不是個博主一樣？準確說法是我的時尚生涯始於博主，但並不止於博主。五年前我在巴黎看了人生第一場高級定製秀，那視覺上全方位極致美的衝擊讓我感動到無法釋懷的程度，從此我開始盡所有可能把這種美記錄下來並傳播在社交網路上，讓更多人能看到、欣賞。相比設計本身，我對自己這張臉基本沒什麼興趣。

　　當然我會經常應要求穿特定單品出鏡，不過我不怎麼享受這類合作；我寧願花精力去想怎麼讓更適合的人穿上好的設計。我的粉絲對我的認可也不僅僅靠看我拍自己。他們更多來自我以前教書時候的課堂、電視節目的觀眾以及活動現場的人群。

　　我的微博、微信留言里有很多可以說苛刻的評論（有不少還挺幽默），每次看到我都提醒自己還有很多不足，還可以做得更好。反觀現在，很多所謂紅人都不敢說自己到底有多少真實粉絲，有多少是只存在於虛擬世界的數字。沒有人告訴他們其實他們穿得一塌糊塗（也有可能他們選擇性耳聾）。

　　回到我自己，事實證明我絕大部分的收入不是靠「穿件衣服拍張照」，而是來自我團隊提供的鏡頭後的服務。想想，一個好看的包包能讓成百上千人搶著剁手；它被超模、明星拿在手裡，配上好看的衣服，這個數字能翻成上百萬、上億。

　　而做一波這樣成功的網路推廣，至少需要一支完備的創作、營銷團隊。並且，一個成功案例不可以被完全複製，換一個設計、調性、目標消費者，所有部分都要隨之調整，甚至出鏡的人也要跟著換。所以好的製作團隊非常關鍵。

　　In general, a good blogger or even a buzzed-about icon can only last well for 2 years in this biz. You need works (music, video, films, magazine exposure, TV interview, etc) to really last. Supermodels usually make it big by going on TV shows or movies.

　　總而言之，博主甚至走網紅路線的藝人明星不太可能紅過兩年，除非他們有很棒的作品作支持，比如音樂、電影、雜誌報道、電視節目，等等。超模想要保持熱度也需要藉助電視或者電影。

　　值得思考的是，經由達人分享的單品、品牌，那些看上去很美的點贊和轉發數字，究竟能轉化成多少銷售額？

　　Yet we really have too many brands that want people in real life to endorse for their products. It"s their KPI to have a "blogger section", in need for localization. To get the work done, most of them get people who are willing to show off the samples and sometimes even buy their products. Some become advocators/ undercover sales ambassadors of these brands. Some are just clowns.

　　But what is the conversion rate? How far could they go? How suitable are the works? So many questions are left unanswered.

　　儘管如此，還是有太多太多的品牌希望找「真人」（相對過於美好的超模明星而言）來為他們的產品站台。怎麼說呢，「博主」在品牌的KPI（Key Performance Indicator關鍵績效指標）指數那一頁算一項獨立指標，由各國家地區的達人們組成，拿著單品拍照分享，或者乾脆買下來。有些會做生意的和品牌銷售分成，另一些拍完交差就算。

　　值得思考的是，經由達人分享的單品、品牌，那些看上去很美的點贊和轉發數字，究竟能轉化成多少銷售額？除了拍照、po圖、轉發、點贊，他們還能做些什麼？這些單品真的適合他們自身的風格嘛？有太多問題等待回答。

　　美版《天橋風雲》里主持人Heidi Klum每一集都在強調：one day you are in, the next day you are out，翻譯成「花無百日紅」，非常貼切。

　　Fashion industry is tough: one day you are in; the next day you are out. Are you really ready to support your career just by taking pictures and looking fancy? What will your plan be when the younger, swifter and stronger generation of bloggers take over your place? Would the majority of people, ordinary people really understand and follow what you wear and what you do? Think about all the above before becoming a damn KOL..

　　時尚業絕對不好做。美版《天橋風雲》里主持人Heidi Klum每一集都在強調：one day you are in, the next day you are out，翻譯成「花無百日紅」，非常貼切。你真的想好了只靠美照華服來支撐你的事業嘛？當更年輕、更潮、更強勢的新博主出現，你要怎麼辦？那些不是時尚圈的主流消費者，他們真的理解、認同、跟隨你的穿搭風格嘛？把這些問題都想透了，再決定要不要當個見鬼的KOL……

　　最後邀請各位真正愛時尚的小夥伴們點擊下面的美圖，欣賞更多我們的原創現場秀場報道吧！