西裝定製 Part 1 - 合身是好西裝的第一步

時尚 04-02

　　Dress to Impress

　　穿著講究以便給人留下好印象：

　　Just as a picture is worth a thousand words, so is the image you portray of yourself. Style is a statement, a way of communicating to someone without having to speak. It is therefore imperative the modern gentlemen understands how to dress for the occasion.

　　一張圖片勝過千言萬語，你塑造的形象也是。品位是一個聲明，一個無需用語言表達的溝通方式。因此，當代紳士在任何場合上都應知道穿著得體是十分重要的。

　　At the office, for example, whether you are an intern, in middle-management or a high-level executive, how you dress will determine how you are perceived and treated by your co-workers, subordinates and clients. Dress well and you give yourself a head start, dress poorly, and you will lose points right from the get-go.

　　當你在公司時，無論你是實習生、中層管理者還是高層領導者，你的穿著會一定程度地影響你的同事、下屬及客戶對你的看法。穿著得體會帶給自己一個有優勢的開端，反之則亦然。

　　Below is the first instalmentof our Gentleman』s Guide to Suits, an easy-to-follow list of tips that every man should know to look good in a suit.Let』s start with the basics:

　　我們整理了一系列乾貨，簡單明了地告訴男士們如何擁有一個體面的商務穿著。讓我們從最基本的原則開始：

　　The Fit 合身：

　　A modern gentleman understands that a suit will ultimately only look as good as the fit. There are generally two choices available to you:

　　當代紳士懂得，西裝得體與否首先取決於是否合身。你通常有兩個選擇：

　　Upon comparison it is clear that purchasing a tailored suit is more troublesome, but the end product is a more fitted and personalized suit. However, it is important to remember, a tailored suit is only as good as the tailor who makes it.

　　相對比後我們發現定做的過程雖然比成衣購買繁瑣，但就合身度及個性化而言，優勢則高於成品西裝。需要注意的是，一個定製合身的西裝與工匠製作的手藝息息相關，如果工匠的手藝差強人意，那結果也是徒勞。

　　Be sure to take our Gentleman』s Guide to Suits with you when you purchase your next suit. You can make an off-the-rack suit fit just as well as a tailored suit, or assist your tailor to create a better product.

　　繼續跟隨下文，我們能使你儘可能用成衣西裝最大幅度地接近於定製西裝的合身程度，或者也可以協助你的工匠更好地打造出一個專屬你的產品。

　　1. SHOULDERS 肩膀

　　The seam should rest naturally on your shoulder, not pull when you move, and not be too wide.

　　縫線處應該貼合你的肩膀，活動的時候不應感覺太緊或太松。

　　2. Jacket Collar 西裝外套領子

　　The collar of your shirt jacket should fit closely just below the shirt collar. It should go across the contour of your back, without being loose, hanging off or standing away.

　　西裝外套的領子應該貼身並置於襯衫的領子之下。它應該貼身你背的弧度，不可太松，也不可下榻。

　　3. SLEEVELENGTH 袖子長短

　　Your jacket sleeves should reach the bumps of your wrist and your shirt sleeves should be a little longer to add about an inch of visibility.

　　西裝的袖子應該停留在你手腕凸起的骨頭上，襯衫的袖子應當露出，稍長於西裝袖子一英寸左右。

　　4. TROUSER SEAT 褲襠

　　Your trouser seat should fit comfortably so that it does not hang or sag, feel too tight or dig.

　　Tip:Be sure to practice sitting or squatting when trying your suit to ensure a good fit.

　　褲襠應該感覺舒適，不應太松導致垮下，也不應感覺被勒緊。

　　友情建議：試穿時一定記得嘗試坐下或者蹲下，讓每個姿勢都能保持合身感。

　　5. Jacket Length 西裝外套長短

　　Your suit jacket should cover the majority of your zip and your entire behind. This is usually around somewhere between the point your thumb begins, and its knuckle.

　　西裝外套應該幾乎蓋上你的西褲拉鏈並完全蓋上你的臀部。這條線通常在你雙臂自然垂下後，到你大拇指根部和大拇指關節之間。

　　6. TROUSER BREAK 褲子長短

　　Though there is a little room for personal preference here, as a general rule of thumb, your trouser leg should end a little above half way up your shoe.

　　此處根據個人的喜愛可做些調整，但一般的通用法則是，你的褲子應該停留在你鞋後跟的一半處。