WWD：Shanghai Fashion Week Boosted by China s Fashion Boom

文章來源：Women s Wear Daily

作者：Casey Hall

翻譯：上海時裝周

4月7日至14日，落下帷幕的2017秋冬上海時裝周聚焦快速發展的中國設計力量，同時為國際品牌提供機會。

8天時間，覆蓋85場專業作品發布，近1000個品牌參與城中所舉行的服裝服飾展會和Showroom——上海時裝周已經成為中國時尚商業的中心。

買手店和多品牌集成店數量的激增繼續刺激著中國零售市場的變革，這也是上海時裝周期間商業貿易領域快速發展的主要原因。

「現在，買手們對上海顯示出興趣及關注度。而中國市場蘊藏巨大機遇，在showroom我們看到很多中國的買手正在成長。」被譽為「呂老師」的上海時裝周組委會副秘書長呂曉磊女士這樣說道。

同時提供線上線下showroom平台的雲衣間（YCO FOUNDATION）創始人楊帆也同意這一觀點：「產業的成長使如今的上海和中國時尚擁有激動人心發展期，但對於這個還在成長中的新興市場來說，教育和鞏固仍然是需要考慮到的重要因素。」

「上海時裝周正在變得層次分類越來越豐富，擁有越來越多細分層面和維度，這對於設計師們以及多品牌店來說是有好處的。」她說。

「這是激動人心的時期，我們看到市場上出現有更多新的店鋪，但是這仍然是一個新興的產業，這裡的很多買手並不像東京或者紐約的那樣專業成熟，所以我們會建議他們一些可能適合他們店鋪定位的時裝品牌。買手們需要接受更多教育以及引導。」

上海時裝周已經發展成為亞洲時尚界的焦點事件，也吸引到越來越多國際業界影響力人物的關注——著名時裝評論人Lynn Yaeger以及法國先鋒時裝雜誌《Vestoj》主編Anja Aronowsky Cronberg都出現在了最新一季的上海時裝周，海外的國際買手們也來到上海致力於發現新的中國設計新星。

來自倫敦Selfridges百貨的男裝買手Jack Cassidy將他的初次上海之行描述為令人興奮的發現之旅，他看到有一些不一樣的，某些方面更為原創的事物，相比亞洲其它大都市的時裝周如東京、首爾之外更有活力的事物。

「我對上海時裝周的印象非常深刻，當我將它與其他時裝周比較的時候，這肯定是我在亞洲去過的時裝周中最強大的。」 Cassidy說道。

「我被上海時裝周的多元性所吸引，這裡有適合新興設計人才的Labelhood平台，可以說與全球其它新興人才推廣平台諸如：紐約的Made和倫敦的New Gen一樣具有水準。」他補充道。

同樣的，來自倫敦的Machine-A商品經理兼女裝買手Mia Poirier指出，上海的DNA是以一個積極地方式作為一個時尚之都去培育時裝周和本土的時尚產業。

「這裡的人非常喜歡服裝和購物。上海擁有自己的Style，同巴黎、倫敦、東京有很大的區別。我只能說作為時尚之都的上海會擁有更多關注和更多設計師，並逐步發展進化。」她說。

Cassidy和Poirier都對Sirloin這個創立於上海的品牌印象深刻，由日本和瑞典設計師組合duo Mao Usami與Alve Lagercrantz聯手創立，兩人曾經先後於Louis Vuitton和 Dries Van Noten擔任過設計工作，他們最著名的是之前在巴黎Madeleine教堂地區的一個公共廁所里舉辦新品展示會。

品牌的展示重構的服裝以及他們的幽默感為他們贏得了粉絲。一件裁切不正的T恤有一個捲曲的邊緣，例如，參考了上海的中年男子的癖好，他們會捲起他們的T恤露出身體有助於度過炎炎夏日的酷暑。

Cassidy 同樣強調了Museum of Friendship, Junwei Lin, STAFFONLY還有XUZHI是「執行得非常好的」時裝演示.

STAFFONLY的展示有一個「時尚犯罪」的主題，場地布置成犯罪現場。XUZHI動情優雅的展示參考了冰島表演藝術家Ragnar Kjartansson的作品《The Visitors》，房間被分為流蘇分隔展示XUZHI女裝的不同視角-（from off-duty to occasionwear）-結合了品牌的標誌性科技和技術材料的發展。

Gemma Williams, 這位來自倫敦的時尚策展人以及《時尚中國》的作者，表示令她印象深刻的展示包括：Yingpei Studio；出生於香港，成長於倫敦的Minki Cheng的Minki;設計師Mushroom Song的WMWM，以及男裝品牌Hiuman。

「我非常喜歡Yingpei Studio的展示，構思細密。這一季設計師比之前的系列更為成熟。她的時裝演示非常棒，我喜歡女性化地使用西裝面料，同時我認為剪裁非常有趣。」 Williams說。「我喜歡Hiuman的展示，同樣很有趣也帶有動感，對我來說，有些東西非常獨特。我認為從上一季到這一季是相對強烈的。系列很小但是很有趣，她並不害怕做這樣小規模的，但卻策劃精緻的系列展示。」

連卡佛的女裝買手Jillian Xin也對Minki系列的廓形和用色稱讚有加，她還表示本季ShuShu/Tong的發布是其品牌最具實力的一季作品。

Xin已經看到了許多年輕設計師們參與上海時裝周以來的個人發展，不僅是設計師們作品的質量提升以及整個時裝周平台在商貿領域的發展突破。

「我認為中國的設計已經變得越來越有趣。先前一些參考的點都很類似，有一些相對同質化類似的系列。現在這些設計師們變得更加純粹，對他們自己的觀點更加自信，他們的設計作品個性越來越強。這對中國設計而言是非常令人興奮激動的時代。」她說。

「國內來看，消費者對於本土的設計是支持的，購買意願也是呈現上升趨勢的。全球角度來看，越來越多的主要零售商來到上海時裝周下單。從根本上來說，驅動需求的實際上是系列的品質每一季變得越來越好，如果產品是好的，總是會有消費者的。」

除了在上海時尚生活地標新天地所搭建的主帳篷內的發布秀，以及位於蘇州河邊舊倉庫內為新興獨立設計師所打造的Labelhood平台外，上海時裝周的日程上還有位於連卡佛門前的第二季Green Code，主打呈現科技綠色的可持續時尚。

值得注意的是，在發布內容中中國設計師CJ Yao, W by Wenjun以及 Pronounce與美國快銷品牌Gap進行合作，前兩位設計師為Gap創作的膠囊系列是典型的大膽、色彩豐富並且產品商業化的。

此外，還有東華大學的畢業生展示秀，東華大學作為中國頂尖的時尚院校之一，這場秀由9個畢業生的作品構成，有些作品使用了特別有別於傳統的材料，包括金屬箔以及吸管。

提供B2B服務平台的同時，上海時裝周本季也持續在面向消費者方面做出嘗試和努力。在產業活動的一周之後，還有更為直接的面向大眾的活動-組委會全新介紹了上海時尚周末，一個集合了互動展覽、對話宣講、音樂表演等元素的消費活動。活動在3天內吸引到3萬觀眾參與。

國際品牌方面，SIFS上海國際品牌發布今年邀請了小型的國際品牌Damir Doma以及Les Hommes，折射出中國消費者對於合適的國內外品牌更為開闊廣泛的選擇-並在位於上海主流零售商業的南京西路街區的上海展覽中心舉辦了發布秀。

Les Hommes，上個月在北京三里屯地區開了中國首家店鋪，並計劃在未來5年內在中國大陸地區再開15家店鋪，在活動中向中國的觀眾們介紹了這個品牌。

「這對於我們來說是一個很好的機會，『我們已經來到這裡。』這是以一個更為官方的形式介紹Les Hommes。不是每一個人都會來米蘭，所以說來到這裡去展示告訴人們我們在做些什麼，這對我們很有幫助。」創意總監Bart Vandebosch說，他補充道他認為中國已經準備好Les Hommes所倡導的「提升街頭審美」。

「這裡是一個接受程度非常高的市場，發展非常迅速，也令我們來說非常激動。」

不是每個人對於上海時裝周的稱讚都溢於言表的，馬蘭歐尼時尚教育學院經營總監Roberto Riccio-馬蘭歐尼本次為了本地的學生辦了一場畢業秀同時也贊助了馬蘭歐尼校友Maurizio Pecoraro的秀-Roberto Riccio堅持希望上海能夠上升一步成為世界時裝周梯隊的重要一員。

「你需要去同世界其他時裝周作戰，這就像一場戰爭。」他說。「我有很多更大的期待，我不認為目前的上海時裝周已經成為他該有的樣子了。我想要看到更多全球時尚行業的人士來到這裡，也希望諸如Alexander McQueen 或者Alexander Wang這樣的人就在你們的學生當中產生。」

甚至是上海時裝周組委會副秘書長呂曉磊女士也坦誠時裝周的活動日程對於買手而言是存在問題的。

「實際上，秋冬季的時間有點太晚了，但是這對我們來說很難，因為中國新年。然而，我們將會嘗試去前移一些，因為對於買手訂貨來說目前舉辦的時間點是在太匆忙。明年開始，我們會考慮的。」她說。

原文參考

SHANGHAI — With 85 shows and presentations over eight days— and a total of almost 1,000 brands participating in showrooms and trade shows around the city — Shanghai Fashion Week has grown to be the epicenter of China』s fashion business.

The continuing evolution of the country』s retail scene to accommodate an explosion of buyer』s shops and multibrand stores is proving a major boost to the business element of the week.

「Now there is some interest and attention from buyers to us here in Shanghai. For the Chinese market, there is a big opportunity, at the showrooms here we see a lot of Chinese buyers coming up,」 said Lv Xiaolei, known universally as 「Madame Lv,」 vice secretary-general of Shanghai Fashion Week.

Fan Yang, the founder of YCO Foundation, a Chinese platform that offers both online and offline showrooms, agrees that industry growth is making this an exciting time for fashion in Shanghai and China, though she cautions that education and consolidation are still important factors to consider in this still emerging market.

「Shanghai Fashion Week is getting more and more layered and more and more multidimensional; it』s good for the designers and it』s good for the multilabel stores,」 she said. 「It』s an exciting time and there are more and more stores opening, but it』s still a new industry. A lot of buyers here aren』t as advanced as in Tokyo or New York, so we can make suggestions to them about brands that might fit with their stores. The buyers need to be educated and guided a little bit.」

As Shanghai Fashion Week develops to become a key industry event in Asia, it』s drawing the attention of international influencers — Vogue』s Lynn Yaeger and Vestoj』s Anja Aronowsky Cronberg were both in attendance — and buyers from overseas keen to discover new Chinese talent.

For first-time visitor Jack Cassidy, men』s wear designer and contemporary buyer for Selfridges in London, Shanghai proved an exciting discovery, with a different and, in some ways more original, energy than fashion weeks in other Asian capitals like Tokyo and Seoul.

「I』ve been really impressed, when I compare it to other fashion weeks, it』s definitely the strongest I have been to in Asia,」Cassidy said.

「I』ve been so impressed by how diverse it is, you have the Labelhood platform with its emerging talent, which is already as strong as any emerging talent platform from across the world. It』s as good as New Gen in London or Made in New York,」 he

added.

Likewise, London-based Machine-A business manager and buyer Mia Poirier pointed to Shanghai』s DNA as a fashion city as feeding fashion week and the local industry as a whole in a positive way.

「People here are very into clothing and into shopping. There does seem to be a distinct style [in Shanghai] that』s very different to Paris, London and Tokyo. I can only imagine that with more designers and more attention on Shanghai as a fashion city that will only incubate and evolve,」 she said.

Cassidy and Poirier were both impressed by the local debut of Shanghai-based brand Sirloin, founded by the Japanese-Swedish duo Mao Usami and Alve Lagercrantz — respectively alumni of Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten — who are bestknown for first showing the collection in the Madeleine public toilets in Paris.

The brand』s play on reimagined garments and their sense of humor both won fans. One cropped T-shirt with a rolled-up hem, for example, references the tendency for middle-aged men in Shanghai to roll up their T-shirts to display an expanse of flesh and help cool off during the city』s sweltering summer months.

Cassidy also highlighted Museum of Friendship, Junwei Li, Staff Only and Xu Zhi as 「really well-executed」 presentations.

Staff Only』s presentation had a 「fashion victim」 theme and was laid out as a crime scene. Xu Zhi』s intensely elegant presentation referenced Icelandic performance artist Ragnar Kjartansson』s 「The Visitors」 in having rooms divided by fringed screens and featuring a different version of the Xi Zhi woman — from off-duty to occasionwear — with each incorporating the brand』s signature technical and textural textile development.

Gemma Williams, a London-based fashion curator and author of the book 「Fashion China,」 pointed to the presentations of Yingpei Studio; Hong Kong-born, London-based Minki Cheng』s Minki label; designer Mushroom Song』s WMWM, and men』s wear brand Hiuman as highlights of the week.

「I really liked Yingpei Studio』s presentation, it was very considered. This season [designer Ying Pei] graduated to a mature level. The show was incredible, I liked the feminine use of suiting fabrics and I thought the cuts were interesting,」

Williams said. 「I loved Hiuman. It was such an interesting, dynamic presentation and genuinely one of those 『what the』 moments, and for me, something quite unique. I think the step up from last season to this season was quite strong. The collection was quite small which was interesting because she wasn』t afraid to have a small, well-curated collection of looks.」

Lane Crawford women』s wear buyer Jillian Xin was also impressed by Minki』s 「great silhouettes and use of color」 and what she described as ShuShu/Tong』s strongest collection to date.

Xin has seen the development of many of the young designers showing at Shanghai Fashion Week and sees both the design quality and business side of the event getting stronger.

「I think design in China is becoming more and more interesting. Previously many of the reference points were similar, which led to quite homogeneous collections. Now designers are bolder, more confident of their points of view and as a result there』s much more personality. It』s a very exciting time for Chinese design,」 she said.

「Domestically, customers are extremely supportive of local designers and increasingly willing to buy. Internationally, more and more major retailers are coming to SFW and placing orders. But fundamentally what』s driving the demand is the fact that the quality of the collections is getting better every season and if the product is good, there will always be a customer.」

Aside from shows in the tents in shopping and entertainment hub Xintiandi, and the Labelhood platform for emerging independent designers in an abandoned warehouse by Shanghai』s gritty Suzhou Creek neighborhood, other events on the schedule included the second edition of Green Code, in conjunction with Lane Crawford, which highlights sustainable fashion brands and hosted a conference on 「The Future of Fashion.」 There also was a tie-up between Chinese designers CJ Yao, W by Wenjun and Pronounce with Gap — which is trying to prove its chops here with fashion forward collaborations.

The CJ Yao and W by Wenjun presentations, which included the capsule collections for Gap, were characteristically bold, colorful and commercial.

Less commercial was the graduate show of Donghua University, which is home to one of China』s top fashion schools and featured the work of nine graduates, some working in particularly non-traditional materials, including tinsel and drinking straws.

As well as offering the B2B component, Shanghai Fashion Week this season continued its efforts to become more consumer facing. In addition to selling tickets to consumer shows at Labelhood – which were generally re-runs held directly after industry events — the organizing committee introduced Shanghai Fashion Weekend, a consumer event held the weekend after fashion week wraps up with exhibitions, talks and live music. The event was expected to draw 30,000 people over its three-day run.

Also held in conjunction with Shanghai Fashion Week was the Shanghai International Fashion Showcase, which this year reflected the growing openness of Chinese consumers to niche labels from both home and abroad by inviting smaller international brands — Damir Doma and Les Hommes — to present shows at the Shanghai Exhibition Center in the major retail and commercial thoroughfare of West Nanjing Road.

Les Hommes, which opened its first store in China last month in Beijing』s Sanlitun district and plans to open a total of 15 stores on the Mainland over the next five years, used the event to introduce the brand to Chinese audiences.

「This is a good opportunity for us to say, 『We are here.』 This is the introduction of Les Hommes in a more official way. Not everybody comes to Milan, so it』s good for us to come to this part of the world to showcase and tell the people what we do,」

explained creative director Bart Vandebosch, who added that he believes China is ready for Les Hommes』 elevated streetwear aesthetic.

「It』s a very receptive market here, it』s very fast-developing and very exciting for us.」

Not everyone was so effusive in their praise of Shanghai Fashion Week, with Istituto Marangoni group managing director Roberto Riccio — whose school held both a graduate show for local students and sponsored a show from Marangoni alum Maurizio Pecoraro as part of the schedule — still holding out hope that Shanghai can take a step forward into the upper echelon of world fashion weeks.

「You need to fight against all the other fashion weeks in the world, it』s like a war,」 he said. 「I had much bigger expectations. I don』t think Shanghai Fashion Week has become, yet, what it should be. I would like to see here more like London where everybody is there and there is an expectation that there is an Alexander McQueen and Alexander Wang inside one of your students.」

Even Shanghai Fashion Week doyenne Madame Lv admitted theevents scheduling proved problematic for buyers.

「Actually, the timing is quite late, it would be ideal if we could move to the middle of March, but it』s difficult for us because of Chinese New Year. However, we will really try to move earlier because for now it』s very rushed for orders. From next year, we

will consider this,」 she said.

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